Grading cards

[nacowboys]

I never got any cards graded before but i think i might want to with my dez bryant collection heres my questions tho.

1. What is the lowest grade that will not decrease the value

2. If you send it (For example) 10 cards saying only grade if a 9 or better and they only end up grading 7 do you pay for all 10 or just the 7 graded

3. Are Game Used worth grading

4.Are Base RC worth grading

5. Are Autos worth grading

Thanks in advance

[Y2Hood]

I never got any cards graded before but i think i might want to with my dez bryant collection heres my questions tho. Will do my best as a frequent grading customer

1. What is the lowest grade that will not decrease the value
I'd say in some cases 9 or 9.5. If you're lucky, 8.5 is right at BV. Anything less you're buying a really nice protector.

2. If you send it (For example) 10 cards saying only grade if a 9 or better and they only end up grading 7 do you pay for all 10 or just the 7 gradedI only use BGS so my answer is based on this, but you'd pay for all 10 because they still go through the grading process. You can also request "Minimum grade of X otherwise authenticate it" and they'll put it in a grading case with a blue strip that says "Authentic."

3. Are Game Used worth gradingI'd say only if the BV exceeds the cost of grading by a substantial margin.

4.Are Base RC worth grading?
Again, I wouldn't put a blanket answer on this. I'd base a lot of my answer on BV and age. Let's just say you got a bunch of Jamarcus Russel cards graded in 2007. You'd be kicking yourself now. But if you have a butt load of vintage base rookies, yeah go for it.

5. Are Autos worth grading
Yes if it's a player worth protecting. I wouldn't really get to hopped up over a Ryan Succop auto, for instance, but Tom Brady, yes. Again, BV and what the card is worth to you.

Thanks in advance
My pleasure. Just be smart. Don't wind up like me when I first got into it. BGS would do a weekly special geared at a specific team and I'd just send in a bulk shipment of any card I had for that team that was either a Rookie card or BV equal to that of the grading cost.

I'm a lot better about it now though.

[9erFan]

How much is it to grade a card anyways?

[nacowboys]

Will do my best as a frequent grading customer

I'd say in some cases 9 or 9.5. If you're lucky, 8.5 is right at BV. Anything less you're buying a really nice protector.
I only use BGS so my answer is based on this, but you'd pay for all 10 because they still go through the grading process. You can also request "Minimum grade of X otherwise authenticate it" and they'll put it in a grading case with a blue strip that says "Authentic."
I'd say only if the BV exceeds the cost of grading by a substantial margin.

Again, I wouldn't put a blanket answer on this. I'd base a lot of my answer on BV and age. Let's just say you got a bunch of Jamarcus Russel cards graded in 2007. You'd be kicking yourself now. But if you have a butt load of vintage base rookies, yeah go for it.

Yes if it's a player worth protecting. I wouldn't really get to hopped up over a Ryan Succop auto, for instance, but Tom Brady, yes. Again, BV and what the card is worth to you.

My pleasure. Just be smart. Don't wind up like me when I first got into it. BGS would do a weekly special geared at a specific team and I'd just send in a bulk shipment of any card I had for that team that was either a Rookie card or BV equal to that of the grading cost.

I'm a lot better about it now though.

Thanks very helpful now i got to sort through my cards to make sure they would be graded highly i think i will get most of my autos graded and some of the nicer patches of bryant like absolutes

[sportster2827]

Take this into consideration. If the card does not look Pristine to your untrained naked eye, then don't send it in at all. That is for Modern cards only. If you are sending in vintage cards, you need to research recent sales of the particular card that you want to send in at each graded level of the company that you are sending your cards to.

Next, centering can hurt you. If you don't have a 50/50 centered card from left to right and top to bottom, don't waste your time and money. Centering is graded based on the back of the card as well.

Edges: Make sure there is no indentations or chipping on the front and back of your card. This can hurt you too. Jersey/thicker cards tend to have this a bunch.

Corners: Pretty obvious if you should send in a card or not based on the naked eye. Touched corners shouldn't be sent in for grading.

Surface: Probably the hardest to gauge based on the untrained eye. Graders use UV lights to find stains or oils from fingers and hands. Without the correct lighting, you are pretty much screwed. The best you can do is to make sure there are no scratches or scuff marks on the front and back of your card. If you can see a finger print(chrome cards), then take a non abrasive cloth and wipe them off in a motion from the center of the card outward toward the edges.

I really could go on for hours but this should point you in the right direction.:)!

[nacowboys]

Thanks again i just need to know about new stuff only started collecting this year so all my cards are basically 2010

[Y2Hood]

How much is it to grade a card anyways?

The more you send, the less it costs on the quantity level. Also the quicker the turnaround, the more it costs.

I think the cheapest on turn around is $9/card for 45 days if you send in 1-20 cards but if you send in over 100 cards at the 45 day service level it's only $7.00 per card.

[mikeyp]

Sorry wrong thread