Your BIN/BO gets hit within 5 minutes of listing...

[messier2]

If that happens to you...which one are you?

a. S*it! I listed it too low...argh!!!

b. Damn, ca-ching! $$$ baby!

What percentage are you A or B?

I'm 40% A and 60% B. I'm pretty current on pricing and trends...but sometimes, I price what I thought the BIN is on the high side and hope for offers.

What about you? What's your breakdown?

[mc1]

90% of the time
A

Happens all the time in COMC.

Should have priced em higher!

[GeechQuest]

B. If I want “x” out of a card and someone hits the BIN fine by me. Bonus points if they think they got a deal and I don’t have to deal with 100 questions and/or a return.

[JMarchand1981]

I only sell what I don't want any longer. If it happens to me, it's cha-Ching.

[eastbayak]

B.

I do my research to know what current comps are (as well as look at supply/demand). When I list at a fixed price, I'm ready to sell for that price.

When I do best offer, I typically give myself enough room on the card so it doesn't get hit with a BIN purchase (although, I've had some of those cards hit with a BIN and been absolutely happy with such sales).

[SuperCoolBeas]

Lol, I'm prob 60/40 on your a. B.

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[thelistofjustin]

B. I trust myself to research a price. If someone pays said price immediately go me!

[Vinny1984]

Definitely B. When I list BINs, i usually list at or just below market value. I’m probably leaving a small amount on the table but it’s usually because I’m trying to fund a big purchase.

[gomiamigo]

60/40 but I only list cards on COMC I don't want anymore.

Last time it happened to me on eBay was like 2012 on a high-end Durant Exq auto card, guy bought it within 15 minutes of listing during their SAS series. Then when they were down 2-1 he tried to blackmail me for $100s of dollars saying it was 'damaged'

days later, which it absolutely was not.

I offered to refund a bit later incl shipping and insurance because I was happy to keep it, and as soon as OKC took the lead he stopped responding after sending me *dozens of msgs*, and when OKC went to the Finals he left Negative feedback because I wouldn't submit to his blackmail.

eBay had all the msgs and refused to remove the negative. I ended up writing to the Founder, head of Sales, and BoD to let them know about this guy. Omidyar's PA actually got in touch with me but they said [back then] they couldn't remove the negative, it was such a #@#@#@#@ show.


So, price it higher so that doesn't happen to you and you can negotiate with someone who's not a scam artist.

[drobfan8]

Some people are just waiting for certain cards to hit and gobble them up at any price.

I see BINs get hit so often that lucky a bit pricey, but I would overpay for a bunch of PC cards if I thought I wouldn't see the card again.

What is the card?

[whoaitsg33]

Nowadays, I lean towards A.


Sold a few Zion, Luka and Taytum recently thinking they’re close to peaking.


Big yikes.

[RogerGodahell]

Maybe you priced it just right.

[hard2guardtoo]

You need to add option C. Buyer ask to cancel with any reason they can come up with.

[BC81]

I am A

Damnit, I forgot I had bass cards listed on comc and I didn’t change the prices...


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[JoeAdam]

A. I've had this happen recently. Had a $15 card but didn't realize it spiked to $40 so I listed it for $15 and it sold instantly. Lesson learned, check recent sales of all cards since the prices change so frequently.

[ThoseBackPages]

C) it will be returned in 6 months

[6celtics33]

B. I never look back

[Jhedges]

You need to add option C. Buyer ask to cancel with any reason they can come up with.

Need to add option D. Immediate regret, cancel the transaction and realist higher.

[orion9578]

B. If I want “x” out of a card and someone hits the BIN fine by me. Bonus points if they think they got a deal and I don’t have to deal with 100 questions and/or a return.

100% correct. If you get what you want and someone feels like they got a deal, less of a chance of dealing with BS.

[Sportnut08]

A for sure

[YeahBuddy]

poll option at thread creation would have been great.

B

I research sold prices first so im willing to take what I list it at if doing BIN

[Bruin7]

The younger me would have chosen option B but the new revised me chooses A. I never look back now as 99.9% of things can be replaced.

[shrevecity]

B. If I am happy with the price when I set it there is no reason to second guess once its sold. Take the money and run.

[byronscott4ever]

Happy to see it go probably

[scotthenrichs]

Always A. Has to be listed six months to be always B, lol

[Boo]

If it sold that quickly, it was underpriced. "Research" can't be done on a rising price because the data isn't there yet.

[CCSportsCards]

I list everything at auction starting at what I research to be a BIN price. Worst case I relist as a BIN, best case I get some bid wars.

[Oldschool42]

As a collector of one player I will hit a BIN if I really need it, it’s the only copy that has surfaced, or super low numbered card and not care if I overpaid. Sometimes the price is so stupid I will make an offer, but 9 out of 10 times I have FOMO and just pay the price.
It’s funny when I make and offer, freak out a minute later, hit BIN, and then hours later get a reject on my offer.

[LeonfromNC]

B always

I always list higher than comps anyways...