What is a fair price for a 1/1 base parallel for a player that is not a star?

[JWBlue]

Specifically this card.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376307699399?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m164380.l178264&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=983623fbc448473783e2641abe38a79e&bu=43198100167&ut=RU&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20250605063519&segname=11021&recoId=376307699399&recoPos=1&autorefresh=true

[hermanotarjeta]

$60-$80.

But the dealer probably wants $120.

[JWBlue]

$60-$80.

But the dealer probably wants $120.

I am looking at comps but not sure I trust the sales are legit.

A Maeda sold for $140. Andrew B. $125.

[oldgoldy97]

Just from the name I can tell the seller is shady.

[OhioLawyerF5]

www.whatismycardworth.com

It's a 1/1. If you want it, what are you willing to spend to get it?

[ThoseBackPages]

150 seems fair.

thats pretty much the price of a hobby box

buy it

[bub838]

I am looking at comps but not sure I trust the sales are legit.

A Maeda sold for $140. Andrew B. $125.

Unfortunately, according to terapeak that Maeda is in fact legit. Based on comps if I was the seller I'd take $100.

[JWBlue]

Unfortunately, according to terapeak that Maeda is in fact legit. Based on comps if I was the seller I'd take $100.

Thanks for confirming that.

What about the Andrew B.?

[towerymt]

I'd start at about $40.

I think a Platinum 1/1 parallel would be worth more than that 1/1...is that a new parallel this year? (just checked...several 1/1s now, and "platinum holofoil" :doh:)

I bought a Platinum no-name RC out of 2024 series 2 that was listed for $299. I offered $120 and the seller accepted. But it's the Platinum. I wouldn't have offered that much for a different 1/1.

I see a 2025 Platinum Holofoil Josh Naylor auctioned $92. I'd be looking to get that Beck (which isn't the Platinum Holofoil, I realize), for less than that. $50 would be great.

[JWBlue]

I'd start at about $40.

I think a Platinum 1/1 parallel would be worth more than that 1/1...is that a new parallel this year? (just checked...several 1/1s now, and "platinum holofoil" :doh:)

I bought a Platinum no-name RC out of 2024 series 2 that was listed for $299. I offered $120 and the seller accepted. But it's the Platinum. I wouldn't have offered that much for a different 1/1.

I see a 2025 Platinum Holofoil Josh Naylor auctioned $92. I'd be looking to get that Beck (which isn't the Platinum Holofoil, I realize), for less than that. $50 would be great.

New this season. Spring Training Black Foilboard 1/1.

I think the fact they are new to 2025 are contributing to the high prices.

In a year that is probably a $20.00 card.

I will wait it out.

[bub838]

Thanks for confirming that.

What about the Andrew B.?

Didn't see it

[towerymt]

New this season. Spring Training Black Foilboard 1/1.

I think the fact they are new to 2025 are contributing to the high prices.

In a year that is probably a $20.00 card.

I will wait it out.

I offered $40. It didn't get auto-rejected. It did get declined (no counter offer). I am done. I like testing my theories. I wasn't trying to buy it and resell it to you.

I actually had a thought after I sent the offer that maybe this wasn't even a card you were trying to buy, and just an example of one for the sake of this question. :cry:

[hermanotarjeta]

I offered $40. It didn't get auto-rejected. It did get declined (no counter offer). I am done. I like testing my theories. I wasn't trying to buy it and resell it to you.

I actually had a thought after I sent the offer that maybe this wasn't even a card you were trying to buy, and just an example of one for the sake of this question. :cry:

There are guys who are motivated to sell and there are guys who aren’t.

Not giving you a counteroffer tells me he’s not motivated to sell.

He wants $100+

[base set]

I collect 12 year old Platinums. If multiple cards of those were listed on 99¢ auctions and truly ‘allowed to ride’ - i.e. not shilled repeatedly in an endless attempt to wring 10 more dollars out of a two digit card, the auctions would likely finish variably at $50 plus one die roll times $10, i.e. $60 to $110.

In Olden Times, the Topps Baseball set had just the one 1/1 Platinum, “There can be only One” - no, wait, let’s make a sequel (printing plates, though I dunno which came first, Platinums or plates. But now, it’s no, wait, let’s make a whole TV series.

I didn’t know there were additional 1/1 cards in Topps Baseball now. So, a question - how many different 1/1 cards are there, derived from the base card?

I also keep meaning to peruse an odds spreadsheet on the random curiosity to know if there is any card in a product that doesn’t have a 1/1 “version,” but ain’t nobody got time for that.

[f2tornado]

I'd start at about $40.

In a year that is probably a $20.00 card.

My exactly thoughts. The current asking price might be more reasonable for a random Yankees or Red Sox player.

[atk825]

I don't think anything under $150 is absurd. You will get these at auction for cheaper and it's sort of a secondary 1/1 but it's the only one of that. If you really want it, it's not that big of a deal to pay for.

[hermanotarjeta]

I like to think about what BIN price I would hit or what counteroffer price the dealer gives that I would be satisfied with when deciding how much I would pay.

If this card was up at $59.99, it would probably be gone by now.

If you are waiting for $20, I’m not sure it will ever get that low as the player himself or a friend/relative or team collector would likely snag it before it hits $20.

Besides, he still has some post-hype potential.

[JWBlue]

Besides, he still has some post-hype potential.

There is certainly star potential with him.

He also could go on a massive hot streak next season, make the All-Star team, and that card could sell for $100.

Someone awhile ago posted on here that they never understood why people overpriced their cards on eBay. He came to the realization that cards could sell for a lot more at a future date with a breakout.

[hermanotarjeta]

There is certainly star potential with him.

He also could go on a massive hot streak next season, make the All-Star team, and that card could sell for $100.

Right now is as low as any Major League Baseball franchise can get - be glad you’re not competing against any hot teams!

If the Rockies were winning right now, that card would likely be settled soon.

[hermanotarjeta]

If we were talking about a relief pitcher who was sent back to the minors or out of baseball, then $20 would be more realistic.

This guy is not hobby ded.

[DR Murph]

[QUOTE=ThoseBackPages;19924215]150 seems fair.

thats pretty much the price of a hobby box

This is the way.

[msink28]

I think it's fine. Certainly not horrendous for a card like that.

Maybe $100-120 would be more in line. But he's a young guy with potential.

[backtothe50s]

Just from the name I can tell the seller is shady.

what makes you say that?

Edit: Disregard, I just saw the seller has 29 negative feedbacks!

[Tom789]

I recollect paying about $60 for a 2021 Topps common platinum 1/1 last year.

[whitmm]

what makes you say that?

Edit: Disregard, I just saw the seller has 29 negative feedbacks!

I think it was the MN in the username.

I looked at the negatives. One buyer left 8 negatives because he didn't combine shipping. Also looks like he's got the worst post office around, lots of "lost" packages.

[speedyjg13]

Specifically this card.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/376307699399?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m164380.l178264&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=983623fbc448473783e2641abe38a79e&bu=43198100167&ut=RU&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20250605063519&segname=11021&recoId=376307699399&recoPos=1&autorefresh=true

It's a 1 of 1. If you want it, hit the BIN, it's $150.00.

[Bosoxfan5990]

It's a 1 of 1. If you want it, hit the BIN, it's $150.00.

My thoughts.

[spuds1961]

What’s funny is when I am selling and get an offer that is not degrading I will counter offer but when the original offer is so low what’s the point of pursuing it.

[hermanotarjeta]

What’s funny is when I am selling and get an offer that is not degrading I will counter offer but when the original offer is so low what’s the point of pursuing it.

Sometimes people have no clue what to offer for a card that has no track record, it’s better business to counter with what you want and sometimes they will hit it.

Not everyone out there is trying to rip you off or insult you.

[Chrominator]

$111 is my answer

[whitmm]

Sometimes people have no clue what to offer for a card that has no track record, it’s better business to counter with what you want and sometimes they will hit it.

Not everyone out there is trying to rip you off or insult you.

They might not be trying to rip you off, but when the gap is large enough, it tends to be a sign that you aren't going to come to an agreement.

I also think there's a difference between being motivated to sell and being desperate to sell.

This card is listed at $150. Sorry, I don't think it's worth the time to counteroffer a $40 offer.

[hermanotarjeta]

They might not be trying to rip you off, but when the gap is large enough, it tends to be a sign that you aren't going to come to an agreement.

I also think there's a difference between being motivated to sell and being desperate to sell.

This card is listed at $150. Sorry, I don't think it's worth the time to counteroffer a $40 offer.

It takes a second to counter at $100.

[OhioLawyerF5]

It takes a second to counter at $100.

But it takes more than that to wait for them to bother to read your offer, then respond to it (if you're lucky). And during those hours, the card you want, that can't be replaced, could be purchsed by someone else. If you see a 1/1 for sale that you want, you simply buy it if the price is in the range you are willing to pay, or you offer the max you are willing to pay. Because you can't find another one, and you may not be the only person who wants it.

[Chrominator]

I agree ab large margins b/w offer & BIN price.

80 would've been more appropriate^ imo.

[Chrominator]

Then he comes back at 120 and then you send final offer of 111 that's accepted and everybody wins! :D

[whitmm]

It takes a second to counter at $100.


It also takes a second to hit the decline button. And you know the first counter offer usually isn't going to knock 1/3 of the price off. It's most likely going to be like $135. And then the buyer is going to come back with like $60. And so on.

Just because there's an obo option doesn't mean that a seller has an obligation to haggle.

[SethMurphy]

Tell the seller you will give him $10 for each game the Rockies have won this season

[whitmm]

Tell the seller you will give him $10 for each game the Rockies have won this season

Now that would be an offer that would likely warrant a counteroffer, at the very least.

[hermanotarjeta]

It also takes a second to hit the decline button. And you know the first counter offer usually isn't going to knock 1/3 of the price off. It's most likely going to be like $135. And then the buyer is going to come back with like $60. And so on.

Just because there's an obo option doesn't mean that a seller has an obligation to haggle.

Outside of 1/1’s that I must have at all costs, I just don’t bother with the seller anymore, especially if he doesn’t respond at all.

Most people will at least communicate with you what their thought process is, but if they’re simply showing off their collection on eBay or don’t want to waste time with customer service, there are many other dealers who will give you the time of the day.

[mfw13]

They might not be trying to rip you off, but when the gap is large enough, it tends to be a sign that you aren't going to come to an agreement.

I also think there's a difference between being motivated to sell and being desperate to sell.

This card is listed at $150. Sorry, I don't think it's worth the time to counteroffer a $40 offer.

I would tend to agree with this line of thinking, but obviously every situation is different, and every buyer and seller is different. I've made offers of 50% of BIN expecting to have to negotiate and had them accepted, and made offers of 80% and had them auto-declined.

No two situations are alike....

[hermanotarjeta]

But it takes more than that to wait for them to bother to read your offer, then respond to it (if you're lucky). And during those hours, the card you want, that can't be replaced, could be purchsed by someone else. If you see a 1/1 for sale that you want, you simply buy it if the price is in the range you are willing to pay, or you offer the max you are willing to pay. Because you can't find another one, and you may not be the only person who wants it.

Sometimes you start lower for the chance they will accept the offer, I’ve gotten cards for much less than I would have paid by doing this.

You don’t know if the dealer is motivated to sell or not unless you test the waters. You give a “feeler” offer and you can tell he’s ready to deal, then you increase your counteroffer.

If you don’t like being bothered by customers, then that’s on you.

[OhioLawyerF5]

Sometimes you start lower for the chance they will accept the offer, I’ve gotten cards for much less than I would have paid by doing this.

You don’t know if the dealer is motivated to sell or not unless you test the waters. You give a “feeler” offer and you can tell he’s ready to deal, then you increase your counteroffer.

If you don’t like being bothered by customers, then that’s on you.

Again, this thread is about a 1/1. What you are saying is good for most cards. Wasting time negotiating over a few buck for a 1/1 is a risky game if you actually want the 1/1.

[hermanotarjeta]

Again, this thread is about a 1/1. What you are saying is good for most cards. Wasting time negotiating over a few buck for a 1/1 is a risky game if you actually want the 1/1.

There’s a big difference between $60 and $120 for most people, especially on a lower profile player.

Customer service and receptiveness can go a long way. In some instances, I’m willing to pay more if the dealer is a nice guy.

There’s also a time component for 1/1’s. If the product just came out three days ago, you may risk losing it to someone who is willing to pay $20 more.

However, if the card has been up for three months, there’s really no urgency as the buyer. Sometimes, the seller just wants to get rid of it after that time lapse and you just saved a couple bucks.

Nothing wrong with that.

[OhioLawyerF5]

There’s a big difference between $60 and $120 for most people, especially on a lower profile player.

Customer service and receptiveness can go a long way. In some instances, I’m willing to pay more if the dealer is a nice guy.

There’s also a time component for 1/1’s. If the product just came out three days ago, you may risk losing it to someone who is willing to pay $20 more.

However, if the card has been up for three months, there’s really no urgency as the buyer. Sometimes, the seller just wants to get rid of it after that time lapse and you just saved a couple bucks.

Nothing wrong with that.

All I said was the more time you spend on a 1/1, the more risk. Everything you said is fine. But you just have to recognize the risk of never getting that card. Ever. If $60 is worth the risk to you personally on that card, by all means, send offers. But if at the end of the day, you want the card more than the $60, hesitation is very risky.

[whitmm]

If you don’t like being bothered by customers, then that’s on you.

The seller did respond to the customer, they declined the offer. In no way is the seller obligated to haggle on the price. If you think that's poor customer service, that's on you.

[hermanotarjeta]

All I said was the more time you spend on a 1/1, the more risk. Everything you said is fine. But you just have to recognize the risk of never getting that card. Ever. If $60 is worth the risk to you personally on that card, by all means, send offers. But if at the end of the day, you want the card more than the $60, hesitation is very risky.

Yeah, if it was Michael Jordan or Griffey, you better bring your big guns.

[hermanotarjeta]

The seller did respond to the customer, they declined the offer. In no way is the seller obligated to haggle on the price. If you think that's poor customer service, that's on you.

Yes, it’s my fault for trying to buy a card from a dealer and making an offer.

How dare me!!!!!

If sellers don’t want to deal with customers, don’t put a best offer on it, just keep it as buy it now. Don’t give people the wrong impression that you are actually going to negotiate. Easy fix.

[whitmm]

Yes, it’s my fault for trying to buy a card from a dealer and making an offer.

How dare me!!!!!

If sellers don’t want to deal with customers, don’t put a best offer on it, just keep it as buy it now. Don’t give people the wrong impression that you are actually going to negotiate. Easy fix.

The seller did deal with the customer. A decline is a response.

You getting this worked up over not getting a counter offer tells me a lot about the time of customer you are.

[mfw13]

If sellers don’t want to deal with customers, don’t put a best offer on it, just keep it as buy it now. Don’t give people the wrong impression that you are actually going to negotiate. Easy fix.

Or set the auto-decline so that low-ball offers that they are not willing to consider get blocked....

My pet peeve is sellers who decline reasonable offers (i.e. above their auto-decline) without countering.

[hermanotarjeta]

The seller did deal with the customer. A decline is a response.

You getting this worked up over not getting a counter offer tells me a lot about the time of customer you are.

I would interpret that decline with no explanation/counter as being a seller with a bad attitude. If I was still interested in the card, I could place a higher offer, but the lack of customer service would affect my decision to do so or to even deal with that seller again.

[hermanotarjeta]

Or set the auto-decline so that low-ball offers that they are not willing to consider get blocked....

My pet peeve is sellers who decline reasonable offers (i.e. above their auto-decline) without countering.

Yes, this is a great way to do it.

I too find it annoying when I finally uncover the seller’s minimum offer yet they still ignore you or let the offer elapse.

[towerymt]

Sold.

[hermanotarjeta]

Sold.

We might be a microcosm of the entire collecting public, but the best way to sell a card is to link the auction on a page 1 blowout thread.

[whitmm]

I would interpret that decline with no explanation/counter as being a seller with a bad attitude. If I was still interested in the card, I could place a higher offer, but the lack of customer service would affect my decision to do so or to even deal with that seller again.

Cool. I don't. I interpret a decline as "No thanks, we're not in the same ball park for price." And there is an explanation, a decline is an explanation of "you're offer wasn't high enough."

I interpret all of your comments here as you think you're entitled.

[hermanotarjeta]

Cool. I don't. I interpret a decline as "No thanks, we're not in the same ball park for price." And there is an explanation, a decline is an explanation of "you're offer wasn't high enough."

I interpret all of your comments here as you think you're entitled.

I interpret your position here as you don’t understand the concept of customer service.

[OhioLawyerF5]

I interpret your position here as you don’t understand the concept of customer service.

Some rando on ebay making a lowball offer is hardly a customer.

[hermanotarjeta]

Some rando on ebay making a lowball offer is hardly a customer.

My case in point.

[spuds1961]

They might not be trying to rip you off, but when the gap is large enough, it tends to be a sign that you aren't going to come to an agreement.

I also think there's a difference between being motivated to sell and being desperate to sell.

This card is listed at $150. Sorry, I don't think it's worth the time to counteroffer a $40 offer.

Thank you. :cool:

[JWBlue]

Sold.

I don't know how accurate 130Point is. Said it sold for listed price of $149.99 which probably isn't accurate.

[Bosoxfan5990]

Sold.

I don't know how accurate 130Point is. Said it sold for listed price of $149.99 which probably isn't accurate.

It shows $149.99 on eBay's Product Research page, so that means it was sold and paid for at that price.

[JWBlue]

Good for the seller. Nice card.

Those cards rarely surface. Maybe it was a fair price.

Hope they have that parallel next season.

[Archangel1775]

If it's a 1/1 and a player you PC of a set or design that you like, $125 is more than fair. If you think not, just wait for the next one. Don't sleep on older 1/1's Pre- Pandem and surely don't let $100 get in the way. Just be weary of the backdoored ones.

[spuds1961]

Outside of 1/1’s that I must have at all costs, I just don’t bother with the seller anymore, especially if he doesn’t respond at all.

Most people will at least communicate with you what their thought process is, but if they’re simply showing off their collection on eBay or don’t want to waste time with customer service, there are many other dealers who will give you the time of the day.

I have done this and it’s the tail wagging the dog you tell the buyer in a message the lowest price you will accept and it still turns into a haggling session. If I have an item listed for 100 dollars and get a 20 dollar offer I already know from experience even if I lower it to 60 dollars which would be my lowest I know they are not going to take that price 9 out of 10’times. So on the 10 percent chance if that much they take it I should come down on my price 40 percent. It’s a lot easier to decline and leave it listed till a more suitable offer comes in.

[whitmm]

My case in point.

That hasn't been your case at all. You've been sitting here saying that seller owes that "customer" a counteroffer or an explanation as to why they declined the offer.

[JWBlue]

If it's a 1/1 and a player you PC of a set or design that you like, $125 is more than fair. If you think not, just wait for the next one. Don't sleep on older 1/1's Pre- Pandem and surely don't let $100 get in the way. Just be weary of the backdoored ones.

That is why I passed. I like the player but I like a lot of players in addition to the design. I would be willing to bet I can get a player I do like in that parallel at some point for $50.

[hermanotarjeta]

I have done this and it’s the tail wagging the dog you tell the buyer in a message the lowest price you will accept and it still turns into a haggling session. If I have an item listed for 100 dollars and get a 20 dollar offer I already know from experience even if I lower it to 60 dollars which would be my lowest I know they are not going to take that price 9 out of 10’times. So on the 10 percent chance if that much they take it I should come down on my price 40 percent. It’s a lot easier to decline and leave it listed till a more suitable offer comes in.

Maybe I’m underestimating the number of dirtbags in this hobby.

Some tactics respectable dealers will use is to counter with the exact same price as their previous offer and at least send a message saying sorry this is the lowest I can go. This way, nothing is left up in the air akin to ghosting. I respect that communication from the dealer and I’ll frequently take that offer.

I’ve placed an initial offer of $1500 for a card once where the dealer was advertising it for $8000. Sounds like a “lowball” offer, but he presented several reasonable comps that I was not aware of and we agreed with $3000.

Had he simply declined me to begin with, the card would be still sitting on eBay for $8000.

[hermanotarjeta]

That hasn't been your case at all. You've been sitting here saying that seller owes that "customer" a counteroffer or an explanation as to why they declined the offer.

The dealer doesn’t owe the customer anything. His card his price.

This customer service thing is something you are obviously not familiar with.

[mfw13]

Some tactics respectable dealers will use is to counter with the exact same price as their previous offer and at least send a message saying sorry this is the lowest I can go. This way, nothing is left up in the air akin to ghosting. I respect that communication from the dealer and I’ll frequently take that offer.

I’ve placed an initial offer of $1500 for a card once where the dealer was advertising it for $8000. Sounds like a “lowball” offer, but he presented several reasonable comps that I was not aware of and we agreed with $3000.

Had he simply declined me to begin with, the card would be still sitting on eBay for $8000.

It's all about communication....the less there is, the less likely a deal gets done...the more there is, the more likely that the seller and buyer can reach a compromise that they're both satisfied with.

[hermanotarjeta]

It's all about communication....the less there is, the less likely a deal gets done...the more there is, the more likely that the seller and buyer can reach a compromise that they're both satisfied with.

Precisely.

People need to understand that a simple decline could mean various things. Giving that clarification to your potential customers can go a long way.

[whitmm]

The dealer doesn’t owe the customer anything. His card his price.

This customer service thing is something you are obviously not familiar with.

Not haggling or giving an explanation isn't bad customer service, you're just upset you didn't get your way.

[hermanotarjeta]

Not haggling or giving an explanation isn't bad customer service, you're just upset you didn't get your way.

Not haggling or giving an explanation certainly isn’t good customer service. If your main goal as a seller is to sell something, good customer service will take you farther than a lack of customer service.

But let me repeat, I get it. Your card, your price.

[Archangel1775]

That is why I passed. I like the player but I like a lot of players in addition to the design. I would be willing to bet I can get a player I do like in that parallel at some point for $50.

You have to remember that being a "star" is relative. A player like Chan Ho Park, Dave Nilsson, Andres Galarraga, Albert Belle, Kevin Mitchell, Max Muncy, Lars Nootbar and similar may not be someone that others see as star power but they usually get high prices for their high demand and rare cards. You're also competing with team collectors as well. When Blaster boxes are $35-$60 at retail, $125 for a 1/1 doesn't look so bad.

But I do understand, design goes along way for me Post-2020. I'm pretty much stuck on Superfractor 1/1's. I'm a big fan of Sapphire but not the Papa 1/1's. Anything 2020 and before, are just tough to come by. I'm also seeing either a surge in Gold Refractors/50 or just higher asking prices, not sure yet but it makes sense with the number of gold refractor variations today.

[spuds1961]

Precisely.

People need to understand that a simple decline could mean various things. Giving that clarification to your potential customers can go a long way.

I have always been known to throw in extra cards on every purchase made from me. I reach out and tell most who have made a lower offer than I expected what amount I can take and let them know I usually throw in some extras. In the end it’s only cardboard but nobody wants to feel like a sucker in the end. Most sellers know what previous cards of the same type have sold for and so do most buyers that is why sometimes it’s easier to just decline.

[hermanotarjeta]

I have always been known to throw in extra cards on every purchase made from me. I reach out and tell most who have made a lower offer than I expected what amount I can take and let them know I usually throw in some extras. In the end it’s only cardboard but nobody wants to feel like a sucker in the end. Most sellers know what previous cards of the same type have sold for and so do most buyers that is why sometimes it’s easier to just decline.

If a card has a long track record of sales, that makes sense. But when dealing with 1/1’s, the range can be enormous. Even comps are difficult to assess. One dealer even tried to comp a superfractor to a 1/1 plate I was interested in. Big difference.

Again, it all comes down to good communication. If the seller wants to make a sale, the more communication you have, the more likely a sale will occur.

I can’t stand the eBay garbage listings of $2000 bin/bo by dealers for cards with a long track record of $200 sales. If I’ve offered double the going rate at $400 and have been declined, am I really lowballing the dealer?

[Chrominator]

Or was all this just a pump? :bouschi:

[whitmm]

Not haggling or giving an explanation certainly isn’t good customer service. If your main goal as a seller is to sell something, good customer service will take you farther than a lack of customer service.

But let me repeat, I get it. Your card, your price.

Hitting the decline is an explanation. It says "I think you're offer is too low. Too low that I don't think a deal can be done."

It's weird how you think that setting an auto-decline is perfectly fine, it's the same thing as manually declining it.

Not responding to the offer is bad customer service, responding complaining about the offer is bad customer service. Hitting the decline button is not bad customer service. At worst, it's neutral.

[hermanotarjeta]

Hitting the decline is an explanation. It says "I think you're offer is too low. Too low that I don't think a deal can be done."

It's weird how you think that setting an auto-decline is perfectly fine, it's the same thing as manually declining it.

Not responding to the offer is bad customer service, responding complaining about the offer is bad customer service. Hitting the decline button is not bad customer service. At worst, it's neutral.

The auto decline feature allows the potential buyer to determine what the seller’s lowest offer is that he would consider accepting, by climbing the auto decline ladder so to speak.

A simple decline says nothing about a dealer’s motivation to sell. An auto decline reveals a lot of information. A simple decline is a lack of customer service and a barrier to getting a deal done. It gives the potential buyer the message, “don’t bother me.”

[spuds1961]

If a card has a long track record of sales, that makes sense. But when dealing with 1/1’s, the range can be enormous. Even comps are difficult to assess. One dealer even tried to comp a superfractor to a 1/1 plate I was interested in. Big difference.

Again, it all comes down to good communication. If the seller wants to make a sale, the more communication you have, the more likely a sale will occur.

I can’t stand the eBay garbage listings of $2000 bin/bo by dealers for cards with a long track record of $200 sales. If I’ve offered double the going rate at $400 and have been declined, am I really lowballing the dealer?

Actually the 1/1 card is where I would be most likely to cut the buyer some slack as I know by looking what they collect it is a personal collection item and not a buy and flip situation, whereas if I list my Caitlyn Clark blue velocity at 100 dollars which is the price most sellers have them at and someone offers me 20 what would even make me think of counter offering as you can tell they are just fishing for a sucker.

[whitmm]

The auto decline feature allows the potential buyer to determine what the seller’s lowest offer is that he would consider accepting, by climbing the auto decline ladder so to speak.

A simple decline says nothing about a dealer’s motivation to sell. An auto decline reveals a lot of information. A simple decline is a lack of customer service and a barrier to getting a deal done. It gives the potential buyer the message, “don’t bother me.”

You can do that exact same thing with a manual decline as well.

An auto decline says that your offer is too low to enter a negotiation phase. A manual decline with no message says your offer is too low to enter a negotiation phase.

You wanting to interpret it as "don't bother me" is all on you.

[hermanotarjeta]

You can do that exact same thing with a manual decline as well.

An auto decline says that your offer is too low to enter a negotiation phase. A manual decline with no message says your offer is too low to enter a negotiation phase.

You wanting to interpret it as "don't bother me" is all on you.

How does the potential buyer know that?

Maybe the seller doesn’t want to negotiate, maybe they do. I’ve seen sellers decline all offers within $5 of a four figure card.

You still don’t know what the minimum the dealer will accept is without an explanation. With auto decline you do.

Nothing says “don’t bother me” like the explanation-less decline.

[whitmm]

How does the potential buyer know that?

Maybe the seller doesn’t want to negotiate, maybe they do. I’ve seen sellers decline all offers within $5 of a four figure card.

You still don’t know what the minimum the dealer will accept is without an explanation. With auto decline you do.

Nothing says “don’t bother me” like the explanation-less decline.

An auto-decline doesn't tell you the minimum a dealer would accept. It tells you the number where a dealer is willing to start listening and entering a possible negotiation stage.

A decline with no message does the exact same thing. If you can't figure that out without a message that says "this was declined because it didn't meet the minimum price a dealer set," that's on you.

An auto-decline is a dealer saying "don't bother me until you raise your offer to a point I find acceptable."

[hermanotarjeta]

An auto-decline doesn't tell you the minimum a dealer would accept. It tells you the number where a dealer is willing to start listening and entering a possible negotiation stage.

A decline with no message does the exact same thing. If you can't figure that out without a message that says "this was declined because it didn't meet the minimum price a dealer set," that's on you.

An auto-decline is a dealer saying "don't bother me until you raise your offer to a point I find acceptable."

How do you know if a dealer is willing to even entertain a negotiation?

You don’t without a message.

Lack of customer service and lack of communication doesn’t help the transaction.

[hermanotarjeta]

Whitmm, you must be fun to watch at shows -

Will you take $80 for that $100 card? “No”.

How about $85? “No”.

How about $86? “No”.

How about $86.50? “No”.

$90? “No”.

$91, $92, $93? “No”.

$95? “No”.

I’ve had it, I’m out of here.

[hermanotarjeta]

Or was all this just a pump? :bouschi:

He got his buddy what he wanted right? ;)

[whitmm]

Whitmm, you must be fun to watch at shows -

Will you take $80 for that $100 card? “No”.

How about $85? “No”.

How about $86? “No”.

How about $86.50? “No”.

$90? “No”.

$91, $92, $93? “No”.

$95? “No”.

I’ve had it, I’m out of here.

How is that any different than auto-decline?

Replace "No" with "Your offer has been declined because it didn't meet the minimum amount set by the dealer" and you have your auto-decline.

Yet somehow you think that a seller setting an auto reply that essentially says "I can't be bothered to even respond to you until you bring your offer up" is better customer service than the seller actually taking time to click the decline button.

[whitmm]

How do you know if a dealer is willing to even entertain a negotiation?

You don’t without a message.

Lack of customer service and lack of communication doesn’t help the transaction.

If there's no message, it means they aren't willing to entertain a negotiation based on that offer.

I'm glad you think that buyers are the stupidest people in the world and need every little thing explained to them.

[hermanotarjeta]

How is that any different than auto-decline?

Replace "No" with "Your offer has been declined because it didn't meet the minimum amount set by the dealer" and you have your auto-decline.

Yet somehow you think that a seller setting an auto reply that essentially says "I can't be bothered to even respond to you until you bring your offer up" is better customer service than the seller actually taking time to click the decline button.

The difference is I left your table and I’m never coming back.

[whitmm]

The difference is I left your table and I’m never coming back.

Yeah, that doesn't answer the question.

Would you be cool with a dealer at a show if you made an offer and he had a helper hold up a sign that said "Your offer was so low that I'm not even going to talk to you until you reach a number, that you have to figure out on your own, that I've decided is worthy of my time."

I'm truly amazed that you'll play that game with an auto-reply, but you think getting manually declined without a counteroffer is bad customer service. Yeah, I'll live without your sales.

[hermanotarjeta]

Yeah, that doesn't answer the question.

Would you be cool with a dealer at a show if you made an offer and he had a helper hold up a sign that said "Your offer was so low that I'm not even going to talk to you until you reach a number, that you have to figure out on your own, that I've decided is worthy of my time."

I would leave the table and never come back.

[hermanotarjeta]

If there's no message, it means they aren't willing to entertain a negotiation based on that offer.

I'm glad you think that buyers are the stupidest people in the world and need every little thing explained to them.

If I’m going to spend money, especially over the internet, and sometimes five figure amounts, you can be sure I expect an answer.

[whitmm]

I would leave the table and never come back.

But you'll play that game on eBay with auto-decline?

[whitmm]

If I’m going to spend money, especially over the internet, and sometimes five figure amounts, you can be sure I expect an answer.

You got an answer.

A manual decline with no message says your offer did not reach the point of warranting a negotiation phase.

[hermanotarjeta]

But you'll play that game on eBay with auto-decline?

If I need to find their negotiating price on eBay, I’ll do it. It’s invaluable information compared to someone who simply declines with no explanation.

If they don’t want to communicate, I won’t buy from them, ever again. It’s pretty simple. Why would I want to deal with someone that may not communicate with me if the package gets lost or if there is some other problem with the card?

You’re just asking for trouble.

[hermanotarjeta]

You got an answer.

A manual decline with no message says your offer did not reach the point of warranting a negotiation phase.

“No” is simply not sufficient enough to complete a transaction.

It’s also completely lacking in customer service.

[whitmm]

If I need to find their negotiating price on eBay, I’ll do it. It’s invaluable information compared to someone who simply declines with no explanation.

If they don’t want to communicate, I won’t buy from them, ever again. It’s pretty simple. Why would I want to deal with someone that may not communicate with me if the package gets lost or if there is some other problem with the card?

You’re just asking for trouble.

A decline with no explanation means you didn't reach their negotiation point.

An auto decline is saying don't bother me until you raise your offer. Meanwhile, a manual decline tells me that at least the dealer took a couple seconds to look at my offer.

It's a two way street. Did you send an explanation of why you offered the amount you did?

[whitmm]

“No” is simply not sufficient enough to complete a transaction.

It’s also completely lacking in customer service.

Yeah, you're just looking for reasons to be pissed off.

[glen87]

this is exactly why i stopped selling on ebay and shifted to comc. if i decline your offer, i do not want to get in a back and forth conversation with you. if you want to offer more, fine, if not fine as well, but do not expect me to tell you why i did not accept your offer. usually nothing good comes from getting in a back and forth.

[whitmm]

this is exactly why i stopped selling on ebay and shifted to comc. if i decline your offer, i do not want to get in a back and forth conversation with you. if you want to offer more, fine, if not fine as well, but do not expect me to tell you why i did not accept your offer. usually nothing good comes from getting in a back and forth.

But hermano lacks the ability to understand that. He needs to be told "it doesn't meet my minimum to move forward."

[hermanotarjeta]

A decline with no explanation means you didn't reach their negotiation point.

An auto decline is saying don't bother me until you raise your offer. Meanwhile, a manual decline tells me that at least the dealer took a couple seconds to look at my offer.

It's a two way street. Did you send an explanation of why you offered the amount you did?

I’ve done it before. I’ve contacted sellers and asked them what their lowest price is and most will reply promptly and a deal gets done.

Those who don’t reply don’t get any business.

[hermanotarjeta]

Yeah, you're just looking for reasons to be pissed off.

Most of my transactions involve dealers who are good at communicating to get a deal done.

Those who don’t like to reply get no business.

It’s really simple and nothing to get upset over.

[hermanotarjeta]

But hermano lacks the ability to understand that. He needs to be told "it doesn't meet my minimum to move forward."

I need to know if the dealer is willing to negotiate.

Otherwise I don’t pursue it further and they’ve just lost a sale.

[OhioLawyerF5]

Buyers who demand attentive customer service are usually the kind of buyers sellers don't want to deal with anyway.

Nothing worse than an entitled diva.

[hermanotarjeta]

this is exactly why i stopped selling on ebay and shifted to comc. if i decline your offer, i do not want to get in a back and forth conversation with you. if you want to offer more, fine, if not fine as well, but do not expect me to tell you why i did not accept your offer. usually nothing good comes from getting in a back and forth.

Deals get done from getting in a back and forth.

I don’t care about 99 cent cards and the like, I’m talking cards in the hundreds and thousands.

It’s important to know your seller.

[hermanotarjeta]

Buyers who demand attentive customer service are usually the kind of buyers sellers don't want to deal with anyway.

Nothing worse than an entitled diva.

Case in point.

[OhioLawyerF5]

I need to know if the dealer is willing to negotiate.



Otherwise I don’t pursue it further and they’ve just lost a sale.They lost a sale, but avoided a headache.

[OhioLawyerF5]

Case in point.I'm convinced you have no idea what that phrase means.

[hermanotarjeta]

They lost a sale, but avoided a headache.

Not my fault people choose not to grind.

There are always dealers at shows who have no customers in front of their table, and they are always the ones complaining they can’t sell anything.

I didn’t realize there were so many people who share this point of view here.

[hermanotarjeta]

I'm convinced you have no idea what that phrase means.

Look in the mirror sometimes.

[whitmm]

I need to know if the dealer is willing to negotiate.

Otherwise I don’t pursue it further and they’ve just lost a sale.

An auto-decline doesn't tell you that.

[whitmm]

Buyers who demand attentive customer service are usually the kind of buyers sellers don't want to deal with anyway.

Nothing worse than an entitled diva.

But yet hermano is fine with getting an automated message that essentially says this seller has zero time for you unless you increase your offer.

[whitmm]

Not my fault people choose not to grind.

There are always dealers at shows who have no customers in front of their table, and they are always the ones complaining they can’t sell anything.

I didn’t realize there were so many people who share this point of view here.

You sure do a lot of demanding of good customer service for someone whose comments and actions don't deserve to receive good customer service.

It's a two way street. If you aren't going to explain why you're offering such a low amount to start with, they don't owe you an explanation as to why they declined your offer.

[hermanotarjeta]

An auto-decline doesn't tell you that.

If you can’t figure it out, it’s your loss.

[hermanotarjeta]

You sure do a lot of demanding of good customer service for someone whose comments and actions don't deserve to receive good customer service.

It's a two way street. If you aren't going to explain why you're offering such a low amount to start with, they don't owe you an explanation as to why they declined your offer.

I frequently say, hey the last one sold for so and so, can you do this (which is usually above what the last one sold for.

One guy knew nothing about 130point.

He based his asking price on a completed best offer sale on eBay. He thought the card sold for $700. I sent him comps on 130point and he realized his error and was more than glad to take an offer that was above the last sale at $400.

He also thanked me for pointing this out to him.

If I didn’t communicate with him, he would have wondered why his card wasn’t selling because he was convinced the last one sold for $700.

If he didn’t respond to me, no deal would have been done and he would have lost a customer.

[OhioLawyerF5]

Ah, a buyer who believes he's doing ignorant sellers a favor by educating them. Yep, most sellers will stay far away from that garbage. And they won't miss your business for one second.

[whitmm]

If you can’t figure it out, it’s your loss.

An auto decline tells you the exact same thing as a manual decline with no message. You didn't reach the minimum number to consider moving to a negotiation.

If you can't figure that out, you're just looking for things to be upset about. And I'm fine losing out on a possible sale to you.

[hermanotarjeta]

Ah, a buyer who believes he's doing ignorant sellers a favor by educating them. Yep, most sellers will stay far away from that garbage. And they won't miss your business for one second.

I can tell that if you were a dealer, your arrogance would lose you most customers.

Stick to your day job.

[glen87]

out of the three of you (Ohio, whit, herm), there are two of you i would be willing to deal with, and 1 i would be ok not dealing with.

[Archangel1775]

I've actually had a card listed for $2.50 with $1.25 Ebay Standard Envelope and a guy reached out and asked me if I could do better. I actually countered to be nice with $1.75. He then asked for free shipping. Haha. I couldn't believe it but responded saying that I could do .99 cent ESE shipping. He thanked me and then made sure I shipped to Europe. BAHAHAHAHA! Auto-decline is an eBay tool that benefits both buyers and sellers. You can't compare it to an in-person deal at a show, its just doesn't apply. The tool simply doesn't work for that job.

The problem with the OBO option is that some sellers leave it on their listings without actually having the intent to negotiate at all. Many times its just the way they have their listing tool defaulted to. But if that's not the case, and they aren't willing to knock down at minimum 5%, its really pointless.

[hermanotarjeta]

An auto decline tells you the exact same thing as a manual decline with no message. You didn't reach the minimum number to consider moving to a negotiation.

If you can't figure that out, you're just looking for things to be upset about. And I'm fine losing out on a possible sale to you.

I highly doubt you have anything I would want.

I was told all the “can’t take a loss bros” and flipper bois had fled these message boards since the pandemic.

I guess I was wrong about that.

[whitmm]

I highly doubt you have anything I would want.

I was told all the “can’t take a loss bros” and flipper bois had fled these message boards since the pandemic.

I guess I was wrong about that.

Great response. By the way. I'm a buyer. I don't sell on eBay, I don't set up at shows. I don't get upset when a seller declines my offer. I don't demand an explanation when they say no.

The fact that you have to make it personal by saying I don't have anything you'd want tells me you know I'm right.

When I go to shows, I feel bad for dealers that have to deal with customers like you

[hermanotarjeta]

Great response. By the way. I'm a buyer. I don't sell on eBay, I don't set up at shows. I don't get upset when a seller declines my offer. I don't demand an explanation when they say no.

The fact that you have to make it personal by saying I don't have anything you'd want tells me you know I'm right.

LOL, you were pretending to be a seller just so you could threaten not to sell any cards to me?

That’s all I need to hear as well.

[hermanotarjeta]

I've actually had a card listed for $2.50 with $1.25 Ebay Standard Envelope and a guy reached out and asked me if I could do better. I actually countered to be nice with $1.75. He then asked for free shipping. Haha. I couldn't believe it but responded saying that I could do .99 cent ESE shipping. He thanked me and then made sure I shipped to Europe. BAHAHAHAHA! Auto-decline is an eBay tool that benefits both buyers and sellers. You can't compare it to an in-person deal at a show, its just doesn't apply. The tool simply doesn't work for that job.

The problem with the OBO option is that some sellers leave it on their listings without actually having the intent to negotiate at all. Many times its just the way they have their listing tool defaulted to. But if that's not the case, and they aren't willing to knock down at minimum 5%, its really pointless.

I believe that a BIN/BO demonstrates your intent to negotiate.

If you aren’t going to go any less than the BIN price, stop wasting everyone’s time.

[hermanotarjeta]

out of the three of you (Ohio, whit, herm), there are two of you i would be willing to deal with, and 1 i would be ok not dealing with.

We all love customers who will pay over comps willingly and without question.

Life isn’t that simple.

[whitmm]

LOL, you were pretending to be a seller just so you could threaten not to sell any cards to me?

That’s all I need to hear as well.

Ok Karen.

[OhioLawyerF5]

I can tell that if you were a dealer, your arrogance would lose you most customers.



Stick to your day job.Only the customers I don't want to deal with anyway. Fortunately, most customers aren't divas.

[hermanotarjeta]

Only the customers I don't want to deal with anyway. Fortunately, most customers aren't divas.

I’m sure you prefer dealing with customers who are willing to be taken advantage of.

It’s an easier path to profitz.

[whitmm]

I’m sure you prefer dealing with customers who are willing to be taken advantage of.

It’s an easier path to profitz.

I prefer to work with people that don't freak out just because you told them no. Or think they deserve a counter offer just because they made an offer.

There are plenty of people I'd be willing to negotiate with. You, however, just come across as a giant a-hole.

[hermanotarjeta]

I prefer to work with people that don't freak out just because you told them no. Or think they deserve a counter offer just because they made an offer.

There are plenty of people I'd be willing to negotiate with. You, however, just come across as a giant a-hole.

Profanities now?

We’ve truly sunken to a new level of cesspool.

[whitmm]

Profanities now?

We’ve truly sunken to a new level of cesspool.

Says the guy who thinks he's owed an explanation to why an offer was declined and can't figure out that "no" without a message means the offer wasn't good enough to move to a negotiation stage.

Most buyers don't act anything like you.

[whitmm]

There are guys who are motivated to sell and there are guys who aren’t.

Not giving you a counteroffer tells me he’s not motivated to sell.

He wants $100+

And he got $100+. Guess he was motivated and knew the value of his card, since he got his asking price.

I'm sure he's really bummed out that you'd never buy from him now because of his "terrible customer service."