First Buzz: 2020 Topps Series 1 baseball cards

[salthill]

Originally Posted by tribefan26

I also think 200k is high for Walgreens, but FTR 200*10K stores is 2,000,000.

But I think many Walgreens are getting zero and there haven’t been many that I’ve seen that are getting 20.

Let me see.... hmm... carry the two... move the decimal point... tickle the Elmo... yep, you’re right!
20 per store is much more feasible.

[wyguy11]

Yeah but don’t hey restock ?


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[ZappBrannigan]

Originally Posted by wyguy11

What’s up with the Tins are they good ?

Only 1 Mookie though...




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How much more of this crap can they make? Next up throw some tins on a spaceship to Mars, retrieve box on Mars Lander the "Elton Musky", dig up your Gavin Lux did nothing SP card worth nothing in 2040, bring it home and throw in closet.

[wyguy11]

So return them ? I just grabbed 15 or so I think.


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[corockies]

Originally Posted by tribefan26

I also think 200k is high for Walgreens, but FTR 200*10K stores is 2,000,000.

But I think many Walgreens are getting zero and there haven’t been many that I’ve seen that are getting 20.

The most I've found at any given Walgreens is 4. That's from a 23 store sample. And I've found none in the past 8 days.

[Oldan Poar]

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[crazy4kinsler]

I busted a tin tonight. That's bogus. It's the same thing as the hanger boxes except you get a Chrome. Won't buy another. Just another way for Topps to gauge us for more money.

I've been building sets as long as I've been collecting, and I'll continue to build an annual Topps set. But I'm starting to think it might be better to buy a complete S1/S2 set and then find an Update set on ebay. Might be cheaper if I do it that way, although I won't be getting anything but base cards.

But buying the tins is a ripoff, at least in my mind. Same thing as hangers (few Turkey Reds, couple of Rhys Hoskins highlights, 2 inserts, Chrome, that was it) for $5 more.

[Soxfan26]

Originally Posted by crazy4kinsler

I busted a tin tonight. That's bogus. It's the same thing as the hanger boxes except you get a Chrome. Won't buy another. Just another way for Topps to gauge us for more money.

I've been building sets as long as I've been collecting, and I'll continue to build an annual Topps set. But I'm starting to think it might be better to buy a complete S1/S2 set and then find an Update set on ebay. Might be cheaper if I do it that way, although I won't be getting anything but base cards.

But buying the tins is a ripoff, at least in my mind. Same thing as hangers (few Turkey Reds, couple of Rhys Hoskins highlights, 2 inserts, Chrome, that was it) for $5 more.

Maybe buy the factory set, grab the update off Ebay, and PC the special cards off Ebay for your guys.

[crazy4kinsler]

I PC vintage and a Topps base set I build from each year. I only use star (Trout, Harper, etc), Rangers and Astros inserts, parallels and GUd/autos as trade bait at the LCS. So that's the main reason I bust packs to get sets. I can use the inserts and parallels to trade for Rangers, Astros, other stars and then trade those at the LCS for vintage.

But I bought a 2019 Topps factory set. However, I've been buying clearance Series 2 fat packs at my Walmart, so I've got about 1,200 unsorted base cards (I pull inserts and parallels and throw all base into a box) from S2 last year.

Originally Posted by Soxfan26

Maybe buy the factory set, grab the update off Ebay, and PC the special cards off Ebay for your guys.

[actionbryan]

Week of release I busted a gravity feed box because I had a $100 target gift card burning a hole in my pocket and other buyers bought every single hanger & blaster.

That made me rich in no logos.

My target just restocked 3 gravity feed boxes. I bought 4 packs from each box and I didn't get a single no logo.

[Redbandit]

Went to a card show today, wasn’t too much going on so I bought a blaster box for the hell it

Nailed this Bryant /10 ...1/6700 packs for one of these



What do you guys think it’s worth, $50?


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[MotorboatJones]

Originally Posted by Redbandit

Went to a card show today, wasn’t too much going on so I bought a blaster box for the hell it

Nailed this Bryant /10 ...1/6700 packs for one of these



What do you guys think it’s worth, $50?


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Nice ! Worth more than $50. I’d say $75-$100.

[calculusdork]

I love it when a card is listed for $100, I offer $66 and then I get the "this card sold for $70" message

[Celticsfan748]

Hit a lux gold out of the one tin I bought. Pretty cool


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[Redbandit]

Originally Posted by MotorboatJones

Nice ! Worth more than $50. I’d say $75-$100.

As Matthew Mcconaughey would say Alright Alright Allllrighhhht

[Neo]

I appreciate that people have suggested they don't love the gold /2020 design.

It appears, to me at least, that this has created quite the buying opportunity for a card that will carry value. Key rookies at very friendly prices. I'm up to 4 Bos and a Yordan. I've only bought 2 of those from the bay. But Im thinking that is going to change.

[SupermanBrandon]

Originally Posted by calculusdork

I love it when a card is listed for $100, I offer $66 and then I get the "this card sold for $70" message

Those drive me crazy. I have that happen once a week it seems like. Im within dollars of the sold price, but I didn't receive a counter. Smart sellers with multiple offers would hold on the top offer and go back to the bottom offers and counter w/ a bigger number. Then just sit a wait a minute for the best offer to show itself while still having the top offer in your back pocket.

[calculusdork]

Originally Posted by SupermanBrandon

Those drive me crazy. I have that happen once a week it seems like. Im within dollars of the sold price, but I didn't receive a counter. Smart sellers with multiple offers would hold on the top offer and go back to the bottom offers and counter w/ a bigger number. Then just sit a wait a minute for the best offer to show itself while still having the top offer in your back pocket.

The art of negotiation is lost on some people. I would have paid $75. :/

Grant

[salthill]

Originally Posted by SupermanBrandon

Smart sellers with multiple offers would hold on the top offer and go back to the bottom offers and counter w/ a bigger number.

Originally Posted by calculusdork

The art of negotiation is lost on some people. I would have paid $75. :/

Hard to know up-front whether the seller wants to negotiate, or just wants your Best Offer.
The cost of going in lower than you’re prepared to pay is the risk of losing it. It’s a trade off you’re explicitly making by not offering your max.

[calculusdork]

Originally Posted by salthill

Hard to know up-front whether the seller wants to negotiate, or just wants your Best Offer.
The cost of going in lower than you’re prepared to pay is the risk of losing it. It’s a trade off you’re explicitly making by not offering your max.

True. Risky business.

[Neo]

Friends,

I have never owned a clear before. I have an absolutely sweet one on the way. I really, really like them.

This will be an expensive addiction.

[myerscards]

Originally Posted by calculusdork

I love it when a card is listed for $100, I offer $66 and then I get the "this card sold for $70" message

Why not just put your highest offer in and don't worry about negotiating with the seller.

[tribefan26]

Originally Posted by wyguy11

Yeah but don’t hey restock ?


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They do restock - but in my area they come one or two at a time.

[pensfan87893]

Been breaking this stuff like crazy! Broke a Hobby and a few blasters this morning:

Arenado SP
Cole SP
Dietrich black /69

Attachment 476542

Attachment 476543

Attachment 476544

[swabie2424]

Originally Posted by salthill

Hard to know up-front whether the seller wants to negotiate, or just wants your Best Offer.
The cost of going in lower than you’re prepared to pay is the risk of losing it. It’s a trade off you’re explicitly making by not offering your max.

Absolutely right.

I’m a super high end college football buyer mainly, but I certainly buy all sorts of baseball too. I am a ruthless but fair minded negotiator on eBay. I absolutely never, ever offer my max as my first bid. I don’t care if it’s the dream 1/1 I’ve been waiting for for 10 years and it’s under listed. I always risk losing the card to save money. I’m probably batting 990/1000 and have literally saved tens of thousands of dollars in my collecting career. Bear in mind I’m not trying to collect the “hot card of the moment” or the “super rookie of the moment.” If you’re doing that then you’ll have so much fast competition it’s too risky.

The other thing I do is ruthlessly manage the timing of my counters. I’m purposefully calculating my speed based on who I’m buying from. If it’s a high volume professional dealer there’s no real reason to go slowly. They just move cards and couldn’t care less about most sales within a range. But a personal, low volume seller is a different story. Especially if the rest of their sale items are of low value. I usually can sweat those people for a deal and usually significantly under pay my real max.

Sometimes if I feel there’s no other interested buyers in an obscure card that I fancy (and I don’t want to offer against myself) I even let a counter offer expire... let the card sit for two (or ten!) months and then come back lower than before. Ive gotten cards for $40 that I had previously contemplated at $200 by gambling to let the card sit and let the seller stew. Very, very occasionally I lose one. But oh well! All calculated risk to manipulate sellers. Every dollar counts in the buying/selling war!

Long and short is If it’s not about getting the “it” card of the moment, it usually pays off to fight the FOMO mentality.