What's your take on grading 1/1's?
 

Are you for it? Why?

Against it? Why?

Just looking for people's opinions... thanks!

What's your take on grading 1/1's?
 

A topic worthy of a sticky as it’s asked every month.

A waste of time aside for protection & authentication.

Unless you know it’s coming back a guaranteed 10, you’re going to leave money on the table when selling. Because nobody wants a 1/1 in anything less than an 10 or 9.5, at minimum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[QUOTE=dfwsoccer01;17168896]Unless you know it’s coming back a guaranteed 10, you’re going to leave money on the table when selling. Because nobody wants a 1/1 in anything less than an 10 or 9.5, at minimum.
[/QUOTE]


Only for the people who collect slabs and not cards. And even then it’s not really true.

I won’t pay a premium for a graded 1/1... but it won’t make me more or less likely to buy it either

With that said... the vast majority of 1/1s I’ve purchased are raw... so might mean many owners also didn’t bother to slab before I got them (as I never grade our cards)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've only graded 2. I would only do it to add protection to something in my PC that I really care about. 99% of the time it doesn't add any value to the card IMO.

IMHO, grading anything #/25 or less is a waste of time & money, because the cards are scarce enough that buyers are going to want them no matter what.

In fact, having them slabbed may actually decrease their value to collectors who want their cards raw/unslabbed.

I collect a lot of HOF autos from sets that are #/25 or less, and I'm willing to pay LESS, not more, for slabbed cards because then I have to crack them out so that they can be displayed with other (unslabbed) cards from the same set.

I've got a Fernando Tatis Jr. Reverence rookie patch auto #1/5 that I want to get slabbed but not graded, I don't care about the grade I just want it slabbed for protection but can't decide what holder I want. With the way grading has been lately I'm guessing it wont be anytime soon but I plan to hold it forever so there's no rush I guess.

[QUOTE=MuskokaMelts;17168985]I've got a Fernando Tatis Jr. Reverence rookie patch auto #1/5 that I want to get slabbed but not graded, I don't care about the grade I just want it slabbed for protection but can't decide what holder I want. With the way grading has been lately I'm guessing it wont be anytime soon but I plan to hold it forever so there's no rush I guess.[/QUOTE]

I will be using HGA to slab my Zac Gallen 1/1 with a pretty label if I ever win a HGA rigged lottery to grade five cards. I like a few of their designs and for some of my modern PC it may be worth the $25 to get them a final home.

[QUOTE=pewe;17168940]I won’t pay a premium for a graded 1/1... but it won’t make me more or less likely to buy it either
[/QUOTE]



It will make you *less likely to buy it, because the seller will be asking for a premium.

I was just discussing this topic because I pulled a Superfractor & have a friend who gets a lot of cards graded. I am starting to see why NOT to get a card graded more than why I [i]should[/i] get it graded.

[b]Instances I can make an argument for grading[/b]
- Cards produced before 2000* [insert whatever arbitrary date you believe quality control made leaps and bounds from the early 80s and earlier]
- Low POP of card in question (low-mid triple digits)
- Numbered cards (higher print runs than 1/1)
- Recent sets with known quality issues
- Cards with sales history of graded card* sold price >> raw sold price


My logic for grading cards from print runs as low as 1/5?
There are as many as 4 "identical" cards in existence somewhere with provenance unknown. If your card comes back as a [Grading company] 10, you now possess the 1 card of the 5 that some company deemed to be pristine, gem mint, whatever. Also, I hope you plan to sell it, otherwise, you spent a lot of money for a fancy case that might not even be that visually appealing.

[QUOTE=vwnut13;17169040][QUOTE=pewe;17168940]I won’t pay a premium for a graded 1/1... but it won’t make me more or less likely to buy it either[/QUOTE]It will make you more likely to buy it, because the seller will be asking for a premium.[/QUOTE]
Uhhhhhhhhhhhh...
The fact the card is graded is irrelevant in the decision to buy or not to buy; he literally just said that.
The price will be at a premium because someone who sent a 1/1 to get graded is going to expect a premium...assuming the card comes back with a 9-10 grade. Otherwise, pewe probably gets a discount on the expected sales price if the card were sold raw.

[QUOTE=mfw13;17168969]IMHO, grading anything #/25 or less is a waste of time & money, because the cards are scarce enough that buyers are going to want them no matter what.

In fact, having them slabbed may actually decrease their value to collectors who want their cards raw/unslabbed.

I collect a lot of HOF autos from sets that are #/25 or less, and I'm willing to pay LESS, not more, for slabbed cards because then I have to crack them out so that they can be displayed with other (unslabbed) cards from the same set.[/QUOTE]

100% all of this.

/endthread

I've been thinking about this a lot lately. I have a BGS 9 Superfractor auto rc of a pretty big name. I've listed it a few times and have not gotten the level of interest I was expecting. Was considering cracking it and relisting to see how much it matters.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[QUOTE=MuskokaMelts;17168985]I've got a Fernando Tatis Jr. Reverence rookie patch auto #1/5 that I want to get slabbed but not graded, I don't care about the grade I just want it slabbed for protection but can't decide what holder I want. With the way grading has been lately I'm guessing it wont be anytime soon but I plan to hold it forever so there's no rush I guess.[/QUOTE]

There are plenty of ways to protect a card without it being slabbed....

[QUOTE=Nodnarb;17168843]Are you for it? Why?

Against it? Why?

Just looking for people's opinions... thanks![/QUOTE]

[B][U]If[/U][/B] it’s a likely PSA 9 ( now on hold - very several hours ago ) or a BGS 9 or better, then heck yeah, slab it! Why?

1. Mint or higher - grade boosts value due to condition, beyond the rarity
2. Authenticity is implied or confirmed
3. Gotta’ store in something - why not a proven sealed case
4. Enhanced liquidity if wanted / needed to sell
5. Marketable outside of insiders like us

[QUOTE=vwnut13;17169040]It will make you *less likely to buy it, because the seller will be asking for a premium.[/QUOTE]


Haha! Well... maybe... you get what I’m saying though... I won’t pay a premium for a graded version - ie my buy price is the same for raw or graded...

Doesn’t mean someone else might pay more, of course. And then I don’t end up with it. I can’t speak for someone else’s preference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[QUOTE=mfw13;17169370]There are plenty of ways to protect a card without it being slabbed....[/QUOTE]


A good laminator does the trick :)!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[QUOTE=cardsin47;17169421][B][U]If[/U][/B] it’s a likely PSA 9 ( now on hold - very several hours ago ) or a BGS 9 or better, then heck yeah, slab it! Why?

1. Mint or higher - grade boosts value due to condition, beyond the rarity
2. Authenticity is implied or confirmed
3. Gotta’ store in something - why not a proven sealed case
4. Enhanced liquidity if wanted / needed to sell
5. Marketable outside of insiders like us[/QUOTE]

#4 is why I sent a few 1/1's in the past 6 months. myslabs, PC Sportscards, PWCC all selling only graded now.

[QUOTE=cardsin47;17169421][B][U]If[/U][/B] it’s a likely PSA 9 ( now on hold - very several hours ago ) or a BGS 9 or better, then heck yeah, slab it! Why?

1. Mint or higher - grade boosts value due to condition, beyond the rarity
2. Authenticity is implied or confirmed
3. Gotta’ store in something - why not a proven sealed case
4. Enhanced liquidity if wanted / needed to sell
5. Marketable outside of insiders like us[/QUOTE]


as someone who mostly does PC, #3 is why I dislike slabs... they are so bulky :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Raw on 1/1's. I actually will pay less for slab 1/1's because I have the hassle now of cracking it and putting it in a holder. I have over 500 unique 1/1s and I've never pay a premium on slabs.

Yes so I can sell it on Myslabs.

Speaking as a collector from way back that has returned after a couple decades on the bench, I would be very hesitant to spend $3000+ on a 1/1 (or any numbered card) that is not in in a case from one of the Big 3. I have only been back a few months, but I see plenty of posts of folks identifying raw cards on Ebay (or at shows) that are fakes. Even when placing them against "real" versions of the same card, I am not skilled enough to always identify the fake from the real card. I feel slightly more adept at identifying a fake graded slab, and at least there seems to be a higher degree of difficulty to pass off a fake slab. At least if I am buying a graded card, there is a pretty high likelihood I will own a "real" card. The piece of mind is worth the premium to me.

I will for PC cards that I don't plan on selling.

I like the visual aesthetic of PSA graded cards.

I have no intention of selling these. Could care less about what it does to the 'value.'

i love it!

What's your take on grading 1/1's?
 

[QUOTE=Smarti5051;17169692]Speaking as a collector from way back that has returned after a couple decades on the bench, I would be very hesitant to spend $3000+ on a 1/1 (or any numbered card) that is not in in a case from one of the Big 3. I have only been back a few months, but I see plenty of posts of folks identifying raw cards on Ebay (or at shows) that are fakes. Even when placing them against "real" versions of the same card, I am not skilled enough to always identify the fake from the real card. I feel slightly more adept at identifying a fake graded slab, and at least there seems to be a higher degree of difficulty to pass off a fake slab. At least if I am buying a graded card, there is a pretty high likelihood I will own a "real" card. The piece of mind is worth the premium to me.[/QUOTE]


I may have missed the threads, but I can’t think of scandals about contemporary 1/1 cards being counterfeited.

I’ve certainly seen bunches of threads showing TPGs grading trimmed and counterfeit cards... I’d be more worried about graded cards being altered / fake than raw.

For instance I’m a Devers collector and there was recently a few posts about a trimmed / fixed prospect 1/1 that was up-graded via alteration.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's your take on grading 1/1's?
 

People frequently have no idea about pop counts and they frequently do not alter a slab’s value.

There’s been a number of threads that have discussed how *high* population counts have not altered a slab’s value...when they would have had those cards been raw.

If you plan on selling the card in the future, it should be graded to have a third party assessment of the condition of the card.

As a buyer, I would pay higher for a 1/1 if that card was grade a 10 versus an 8, for example.

Also, no disputes over condition if you sell it on the internet.

What's your take on grading 1/1's?
 

[QUOTE=hermanotarjeta;17169874]If you plan on selling the card in the future, it should be graded to have a third party assessment of the condition of the card.
[/QUOTE]

Why? Is someone going to be able to find another copy in better condition?


[QUOTE=hermanotarjeta;17169874]As a buyer, I would pay higher for a 1/1 if that card was grade a 10 versus an 8, for example. [/QUOTE]

Please provide an example.


[QUOTE=hermanotarjeta;17169874]Also, no disputes over condition if you sell it on the internet. [/QUOTE]

Please provide an example when this situation has happened to you.

[QUOTE=MoreToppsPlease;17169979]Why? Is someone going to be able to find another copy in better condition?

It helps to eliminate one of the many excuses a buyer could use to return the card for whatever reason.


Please provide an example.

Many players have many different 1/1's to choose from these days. I would rather pay more for a better conditioned from a less desired set than a beat up copy of a card from a more desired set, ie if that 1/1 has some serious flaw to it, I would prefer to look for another one from a different set in much better condition


Please provide an example when this situation has happened to you.[/QUOTE]

This happens every day to every ebay seller. "you didn't mention the surface scratch, I want a refund."

"you didn't highlight this flaw on your scan, I want a refund"

etc. etc.

[QUOTE=hermanotarjeta;17170000]This happens every day to every ebay seller. "you didn't mention the surface scratch, I want a refund."

"you didn't highlight this flaw on your scan, I want a refund"

etc. etc.[/QUOTE]


Definitely. Buyers can return slabs for surface scratches.

[QUOTE=MoreToppsPlease;17170017]Definitely. Buyers can return slabs for surface scratches.[/QUOTE]

It happens so much more often with raw cards versus slabbed.

Regarding people willing to pay more for a higher graded 1/1 versus a lower graded 1/1, a specific example was the 2005 topps chrome jay bruce auto 1/1 superfractor.

The card is so off-centered, to my knowledge it has never been graded because the best it would get would be a 8. If it was centered better and in a gem mint slab, it would have sold for much more. I know, because I would have bid on it back in the day, but I stayed away period because the centering was so awful.

What's your take on grading 1/1's?
 

[QUOTE=hermanotarjeta;17170023]It happens so much more often with raw cards versus slabbed.

Regarding people willing to pay more for a higher graded 1/1 versus a lower graded 1/1, a specific example was the 2005 topps chrome jay bruce auto 1/1 superfractor.

The card is so off-centered, to my knowledge it has never been graded because the best it would get would be a 8. If it was centered better and in a gem mint slab, it would have sold for much more. I know, because I would have bid on it back in the day, but I stayed away period because the centering was so awful.[/QUOTE]

There are just more raw cards out there!

Very few Topps Chrome Supers are graded, because they’re 1/1s and because the brand doesn’t cater to prospectors.

But if you’re more interested in buying the grade and not the card, I’d expect you have an amazing collection of pop 1 common cards. Do you have many of these?

[QUOTE=MoreToppsPlease;17170039]There are just more raw cards out there!

Very few Topps Chrome Supers are graded, because they’re 1/1s and because the brand doesn’t cater to prospectors.

But if you’re more interested in buying the grade and not the card, I’d expect you have an amazing collection of pop 1 common cards. Do you have many of these?[/QUOTE]

I had several 1/1’s back in the day that I held in my collection in raw form. When I finally decided to sell them, I had them graded first before listing them because I didn’t want to deal with condition disputes. They graded 8, 8.5 and 9. They would have sold for more if they were in 9.5 or pristine, but I never got any returns because the buyers knew what condition the card was in. I also didn’t want to take any chances as they were five-figure value cards.

I get all of mine graded for protection and organization reasons.

Few questions. Wouldn't a graded 1 of 1 be harder to return as a counterfeit claim reason due to it's authentication by the TPG? Won't the TPG have a difficult determination grading a 1 of 1 as there is not another example to compare it to?

[QUOTE=Oachs83;17169629]Yes so I can sell it on Myslabs.[/QUOTE]

Or at least have the option.

[QUOTE=MoreToppsPlease;17170017]Definitely. Buyers can return slabs for surface scratches.[/QUOTE]


Or because they think it was over graded

Or because it’s price dropped because they bought in at the peak of flipper mania

People will return for anything


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Slabbed or not, it's still a 1/1. It's rarity should be the commanding factor, not grade. Once it's gone into a collector's hands, you may never see it again.

I like it. Doesn't matter what grade they receive, as there is only one... but the case protects it from any further damage, and they look slick in the holders. :)!

[QUOTE=MoreToppsPlease;17168881]A topic worthy of a sticky as it’s asked every month.

A waste of time aside for protection & authentication.[/QUOTE]

Ah... sorry, I tried using the search feature before posting, but I didn't really see any threads (I could've easily not have put in the right info as well... new here). Sorry bout that, I figured it'd be a popular topic so I was surprised when I didn't see what I was looking for.

I don't sell.

I buy what I want, I grade what I want.

This being said, if it's a PC 1/1 (or other low numbered) I typically get it graded, regardless of the potential outcome. If I know it's going to grade bad I usually go with PSA because the label isn't an eyesore when grading lower than 10/9.5

I’ll slab my 1/1s and request authentication over a number grade. Prefer the slab look and the added protection.

Would never grade a 1/1.
The whole point of grading something is to set it apart from others and give it perceived scarcity.
So no point in grading them.
If you want protection get a one touch with a superior sleeve. It is thicker and stronger then a psa or sgc case, maybe not bgs.
Cost wise for more expensive cards you are looking to sell is just not worth it to me.

If i have a 1/1 that is worth about $3000 i have to pay psa $300 to grade plus shipping and insurance there and back which would be about another $100.

So adding in another $400 in to the card that even if it graded a 10 i dont think any "added value" is there.

To each their own though.

No reason to grade if it’s a forever pc piece.
Grade if you’re ever going to sell it.
Authentic grade is complete garbage. Tell me your hiding something g without telling me your hiding something.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk