Should I Get This Card Graded - 1955 Topps Roberto Clemente
 

Should I get this PC card graded? Would it add any value to the card? What company would you get it graded by? What grade do you think it would get? What value do you place on the card as is? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
[IMG][URL=http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/PittsburghBoxBreaks/media/12037_10200716494413806_2092598095_n_zps23402d24.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r546/PittsburghBoxBreaks/12037_10200716494413806_2092598095_n_zps23402d24.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/IMG]

A little tough to tell from that pic. But assuming no creases or damage to the back, I'd say psa 5 or maybe 6(OC)

No damage or creases at all, definately off center, corners are alittle rounded, edges look decent.

[QUOTE=jr24ai3;5497732]A little tough to tell from that pic. But assuming no creases or damage to the back, I'd say psa 5 or maybe 6(OC)[/QUOTE]

To answer your question you should absolutely get it graded. I'm partial to SGC for vintage cards myself but PSA would be good as well. I avoid BVG.

IMO if a vintage card has very decent corners and at least 70/30 centering it is worth grading only if you want to sell it. If you are keeping it for yourself, who cares what it grades.

It's for my PC as I am a diehard Pittsburgh fan, however will sell someday when it's time. In my opinion, I think it would get a PSA 6. If it was my lucky day, a PSA 7, if it was not my lucky day, a PSA 5. Thoughts?

[QUOTE=Antmoon5;5498423]IMO if a vintage card has very decent corners and at least 70/30 centering it is worth grading only if you want to sell it. If you are keeping it for yourself, who cares what it grades.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Hagaman42;5498618]It's for my PC as I am a diehard Pittsburgh fan, however will sell someday when it's time. In my opinion, I think it would get a PSA 6. If it was my lucky day, a PSA 7, if it was not my lucky day, a PSA 5. Thoughts?[/QUOTE]

No shot at a straight 7. If there is slight wear on a few corners, you won't get a 7(OC). And I think the centering is too far off for even a straight 6. So maybe a 5 with no qualifier or a 6(OC). But no shot at a straight 7 w/o a qualifier.

I'd still get it graded. Will make it easier to sell and you should get a little extra w/ it being graded.

Thanks for the insight, greatly appreciated

[QUOTE=jr24ai3;5499346]No shot at a straight 7. If there is slight wear on a few corners, you won't get a 7(OC). And I think the centering is too far off for even a straight 6. So maybe a 5 with no qualifier or a 6(OC). But no shot at a straight 7 w/o a qualifier.

I'd still get it graded. Will make it easier to sell and you should get a little extra w/ it being graded.[/QUOTE]

Any grade of 5 or better would add a lot of value if selling card on ebay..

one of the greatest vintage baseball cards every made..

I would hope at worst this card would get a 5, but I'm hoping for a 6

[QUOTE=kyle1707;5519319]Any grade of 5 or better would add a lot of value if selling card on ebay..

one of the greatest vintage baseball cards every made..[/QUOTE]

I would go with SGC for that. My guess would be an SGC 60 or 70.

PSA 6.........

Yes.
And like some others, I'd use SGC

BVG or PSA?

Id say a 6 is a reach.
but its only my opinion

I'm thinking a 6 OC?

[QUOTE=Hagaman42;5535527]I'm thinking a 6 OC?[/QUOTE]

That would be a kiss of death qualifier.

I just am not sure if that card can get a 6 with that centering.

PSA PSA PSA

I'll say, you have the card protected in the worst possible way. Might as well throw a rubber band around it rather then crush/smoosh it.

It's My opinion, and I hate those cases.

I doubt PSA will grade without a OC qualifier, they use that to indicate that the card is in better shape than the centering and since its badly OC one direction and poorly centered the other, don't think you get a straight grade from them. Good luck what ever you choose, I would ask to get a authentic unaltered non grade to put in a slab, I prefer Beckett slabs though and Beckett will be cheaper than the other two companies for a card That books tHat high. This card gets faked too much and is on the fast track to requiring authentication to sell them as real on eBay if its not there already.

[QUOTE=groundsupport;5535979]I'll say, you have the card protected in the worst possible way. Might as well throw a rubber band around it rather then crush/smoosh it.

It's My opinion, and I hate those cases.[/QUOTE]

+1
That case may peel some of the surface off the card if its ever been exposed to high air moisture and or heat while in that case.

[QUOTE=ajw9356;5536050]+1
That case may peel some of the surface off the card if its ever been exposed to high air moisture and or heat while in that case.[/QUOTE]

Out of curiosity, would putting it in a Penny then the case? Or are those cases just terrible period.? They don't make Magnetics for that size do they?

Those cases are brutal. I don't know if its a folk tale or what, but there was a story about a dude who brought a Jordan RC to the National to get it graded and he had it in one of those things. When he opened it, it peeled the Jordan clean in two pieces and the front and back stuck to the case.

Try taking it out of that thing CAREFULLY.

[QUOTE=Old Nap;5536257]Out of curiosity, would putting it in a Penny then the case? Or are those cases just terrible period.? They don't make Magnetics for that size do they?[/QUOTE]

I think the extra thick penny sleeves work as a regular sleeve on the oversized 1955s. I think you can special order a different size top load to fit larger cards, but the 1955 fits in a Norman top load I think also. If nothing else a semirigid card holder is better Han nothing.

No, just sell it to me for $10.

Seriously, #1 get it out of that death case, then yes, get it graded.

I'd go with SGC myself, but I'm no expert in vintage. I just like SGC better and don't have the highest trust in PSA currently.