Never graded, help with Nolan Ryan Rookie card

[Newcardseller]

Good morning and Happy New Year's eve to all you collectors out there,

I am not a card collector, but, my partner's dad gave us an old baseball card he had kept, telling us it is probably worth something. I am a complete newbie when it comes to grading a card. I would like your input and assistance in order to get this card graded.

It is a Nolan Ryan 1968 TOPPS Rookie card. It is the canadian version of the card, which, I was told, was rarer than the american version. It's been in that case for decades now.

I wanted to know which company would be the best one to use to get it graded.

Also knowing that the price range can greatly cary, I am not sure which insurance tier to pick when sending it in.

Any other information a newbie like me would need would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all for your help!

[towerymt]

Nice card. Value is probably in the ~$2,000-$3,000 range based on prior ebay sales.



Do you have any other card holders to put this card in after it comes out of this screw-down holder? top loader (rigid plastic) or card saver I (semi-rigid).

Card saver 1:


None of the grading companies want you to submit a card in a screw-down holder. They usually request semi-rigid holders (like card saver 1, BCW, etc. sold as 'semi-rigid' card holder).

If you just have this one card to submit and you don't have anything like this, send me a PM with your address and I'll mail you a few. Free...just need your address.

[towerymt]

Once it's out of the screw-down:

The bad thing about those holders is that they can pinch the corners of the card and flatten them. Some grading companies consider that 'alteration', simply because the technique of flattening a card can be used to improve condition or enable trimming.

Depending on severity and if it can be detected by the grader, that might cause the card to get rejected by PSA. They would consider it 'altered stock' and not give the card a grade. If that happens, you still pay the grading fee, and best case is you get the card back in a holder that says 'AUTHENTIC ALTERED'.

For this reason, I would suggest sending the card to SGC. https://www.gosgc.com/

SGC will still give the card a number grade if a corner is pressed from a screw-down. I sent one ('55 Topps Ted Williams) with a BADLY pressed corner, and it got an SGC-5 grade.

Grading fees:
PSA, value up to $1500, fee is $74.99
PSA, value up to $2500, fee is $129

SGC, value up to $1499, fee is $15
SGC, value 1500+, fee is $85

[towerymt]

Max resale value will come from a PSA grade.

If you knew in advance the card would grade a 4, either PSA or SGC, then you'd want a PSA-4 over an SGC-4.

But you don't know in advance.

I would go with SGC and personally I would declare the value at $1499 and submit at the $15 grading fee. Save yourself $70. But there is risk involved. If SGC damages or loses the card, you're only getting compensated up to your declared value. So if you don't want to take any risk, declare the value higher and pay the $85 grading fee.

If you decide to go with PSA, it would be $129 up to $2500 declared value. If you want up to $5,000 declared, it's $249 to grade with PSA.

[towerymt]

Packing the card to send for grading:

Once it's in a semi-rigid holder (and I would leave the card in the sleeve it's in now), then for a single card submission I would put it between two pieces of thick cardboard cut to the size of the holder. I generally rubber-band the cardboard rather than tape, but that's up for debate. Double up the cardboard layers if you want, wrap it in bubble wrap, pack it into a small box that will resist crushing. Could put it into a slightly larger box with padding around it. Up to you.

Some people use USPS small flat rate boxes to submit just a few cards. I think those boxes are too small and I've received them with punctures through the box, from other heavy boxes landing on them, so I pack my cards to withstand impacts from larger, heavier boxes.

Insurance through USPS is another point of debate. I don't pay for insurance. I send mine via USPS Express padded flat rate envelope for a cost of ~$30 and it gets from east coast to PSA in CA by the next business day. I minimize the time in the system and so far I haven't had any lost or damaged packages.

Some say USPS insurance won't pay out or it's difficult to get it paid out. I have no real experience with it. Same with FedEx, mostly people saying they won't pay out claims or they won't cover an amount that covers the true value of the package. I don't know if that's true or not. Some people carry a collectibles insurance plan that covers them through the mail, but maybe only certain carriers or service levels. Again, nothing I have experience with that I can share.

[towerymt]

Filling out the online submission is pretty straight forward with either SGC or PSA. PSA has specific instructions for packaging and labeling the outside of the package with a barcode that prints with the submission forms.

Any questions...just ask. Tried to break this up into a few distinct topics.

[discodanman45]

Unless the card has a chance at a real high grade, there is not much difference between SGC and PSA for a card like this. Send to SGC, declare the value at $3500, and let us know the results! With cards that have been in screw downs, SGC is the best option.

[KGD54]

As others have said PSA or SGC for this. Highest resale value is going to be PSA but SGC is still close. One thing to note, when you fill out the listing this is not a 1968 topps as you indicated, since its the Canadian version its a 1968 O-PEE-CHEE, make sure you list it correctly when submitting. Last thing you want to happen is have the company get it wrong on your slab and put topps instead of o-pee-chee.

[Newcardseller]

Originally Posted by KGD54

As others have said PSA or SGC for this. Highest resale value is going to be PSA but SGC is still close. One thing to note, when you fill out the listing this is not a 1968 topps as you indicated, since its the Canadian version its a 1968 O-PEE-CHEE, make sure you list it correctly when submitting. Last thing you want to happen is have the company get it wrong on your slab and put topps instead of o-pee-chee.

Good to know thanks! I will make sure to state the O-pee-chee instead of Topps!

[Newcardseller]

Originally Posted by towerymt

Nice card. Value is probably in the ~$2,000-$3,000 range based on prior ebay sales.



Do you have any other card holders to put this card in after it comes out of this screw-down holder? top loader (rigid plastic) or card saver I (semi-rigid).

Card saver 1:


None of the grading companies want you to submit a card in a screw-down holder. They usually request semi-rigid holders (like card saver 1, BCW, etc. sold as 'semi-rigid' card holder).

If you just have this one card to submit and you don't have anything like this, send me a PM with your address and I'll mail you a few. Free...just need your address.

I did not know about taking it out of the screw-down prior to sending it in. Thanks for letting me know! I appreciate the offer, but I have a card shop not too far from where I live, I'll go get myself a semi-rigid holder.

It would suck that the value went down because of the screwdown, but some value is better than nothing!

[Newcardseller]

Originally Posted by towerymt

Once it's out of the screw-down:

The bad thing about those holders is that they can pinch the corners of the card and flatten them. Some grading companies consider that 'alteration', simply because the technique of flattening a card can be used to improve condition or enable trimming.

Depending on severity and if it can be detected by the grader, that might cause the card to get rejected by PSA. They would consider it 'altered stock' and not give the card a grade. If that happens, you still pay the grading fee, and best case is you get the card back in a holder that says 'AUTHENTIC ALTERED'.

For this reason, I would suggest sending the card to SGC. https://www.gosgc.com/

SGC will still give the card a number grade if a corner is pressed from a screw-down. I sent one ('55 Topps Ted Williams) with a BADLY pressed corner, and it got an SGC-5 grade.

Grading fees:
PSA, value up to $1500, fee is $74.99
PSA, value up to $2500, fee is $129

SGC, value up to $1499, fee is $15
SGC, value 1500+, fee is $85

Thanks for all the info! I read all your posts. A lot of info I did not know about! I was not aware that PSA could refuse to grade, yet still keep the money. It does suck if the card loses value because it is in that screw down, but it's been in there for decades, whatver damage it caused, it's too late now!

Once you get it graded, do buyers typically care if the corners were flattened? I assume the grade trumps the personal opinion of the buyer? Any comments on that?

[discodanman45]

Originally Posted by Newcardseller

Once you get it graded, do buyers typically care if the corners were flattened? I assume the grade trumps the personal opinion of the buyer? Any comments on that?

It is impossible to tell in a slab once graded unless there is some color loss at the corners. Depending on how tight your screwdown was, it may not have flattened the card at all. The grade and more importantly eye-appeal will determine the buyer's willingness to buy.

SGC could upcharge you if it grades above a certain number. The declared value limit is $3500 for the $85 submission. If they determine the card is worth $5000 in the condition, they do upcharge vintage.

[towerymt]

Bright white surface near the corner is where this one got pressed flat. Light reflecting makes the surface look shiny.

[Gary]

Originally Posted by discodanman45

Unless the card has a chance at a real high grade, there is not much difference between SGC and PSA for a card like this. Send to SGC, declare the value at $3500, and let us know the results! With cards that have been in screw downs, SGC is the best option.

Plus 1,faster turn around,selling price will be close enough that it wont matter.less altered stock worry.

[Newcardseller]

Originally Posted by Gary

Plus 1,faster turn around,selling price will be close enough that it wont matter.less altered stock worry.

Thanks! Glad to find out PSA isn't the only way to go. I was always under the impression that anything not PSA wasn't viewed as ''good'', but that's from the perspective of someone not in the collecting hobby. I'll be sending the card out in the next couple weeks and I will let you guys know what it turns out to be! I'll have more questions once I get it graded

[discodanman45]

Originally Posted by Newcardseller

Thanks! Glad to find out PSA isn't the only way to go. I was always under the impression that anything not PSA wasn't viewed as ''good'', but that's from the perspective of someone not in the collecting hobby. I'll be sending the card out in the next couple weeks and I will let you guys know what it turns out to be! I'll have more questions once I get it graded

Modern and ultra-modern need to be in PSA slabs for the most part. Vintage needs to be in PSA if it is a high grade. Mid-grade vintage, collectors will take eye appeal into consideration. Your card would make little difference in either slab. Especially OPC baseball where the PSA registry doesn't highlight these cards.