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BASKETBALL Post your Basketball Cards Hobby Talk |
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#1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: California
Posts: 7,040
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Which do you prefer when selling on eBay? I’ve been selling off some graded cards to fund new purchases. I’ve been listing Buy It Now at highest realistic price I think I can get with offers.
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#2 |
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I auction if the price is well known / researchable on eBay. Helps draw in bidders. If it's something that is hard to price and doesnt have many comps I will do a high BIN with make an offer to test the waters.
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Spurs Collector: Looking for Auto of every Spurs player in Spurs Jersey Also Collect Spurs Finals Preferred Patches /25 IG: spurs_cards_ |
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#3 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: California
Posts: 7,040
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Thanks. The stuff I’m selling is all PSA10 Prizm NBA and Chrome MLB. I’ll switch to auctions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: dc
Posts: 7,181
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for me lower end I go auction, mid-high end I go BIN/BO
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https://www.flickr.com/gp/76567484@N05/x3no8r Collect Pokemon, 2000s Basketball Football Follow me on Instagram! CardCatcherJ |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,963
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Rare items, I always sell Buy Now. Something that is very common, I use auction unless my card is in great condition.
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#7 |
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For the people that do BIN with BO. At what percent do you cut your offers off or do you just leave it wide open? Example BIN is $500 do you look at offers below $250?
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: I'm right here
Posts: 463
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For me, it depends on the item. I rarely think of it in percentages. Most often, I will just put the absolute floor I will accept as the lowest acceptable offer. Gives you a little room to negotiate as well.
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 3,088
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It also depends on the feedback that the offer maker has left for previous sellers....and I do check it every time. If I see any kind of potential problem in the feedback left, I decline and block. |
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#10 |
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I list all BIN/BO with a really high price so I can determine who buys the card and for what price. There are plenty of times where I’ve declined reasonable offers because of the account. If they’ve left more than a couple negative feedbacks that’s an easy decline, if they have no/ very little feedback they’re gonna have to pay full BIN if they want it.
I usually set the cutoff for offers at 50% of list price cause if you’re offering less than that it’s probably an insultingly low offer that’s not worth even seeing.
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Just moonwalking through hell on my last brain cell |
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#11 |
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Always BIN with no offer. I only sell stuff that I’m serious about selling so they are always at or near the bottom of the market. I used to do all auctions but there is too much f*ckery that happens. Relisting unpaid auctions puts me in a foul mood.
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 468
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I almost exclusively use BIN/OBO. I take a few minutes to see what the card is selling for (what people have it listed for and what listings have bidders and what is the current high bid) and also what it has sold for. I use those figures to price accordingly. For me, I list on eBay to sell in the short term, so I price competitively. IF I do an auction, I always start at 99¢.
Also, it is important (for cards that apply) to utilize the eBay Standard Envelope aka ESE. I give buyers the option to use the 99¢ shipping ESE or the USPS first class $2.99. On the flip side, a good buddy of mine almost never uses the OBO option and uses straight BIN. He figures that if someone wants the card they will buy it. He also prices competitively and just doesn’t want to deal with all the BS offers people send (as mentioned by the poster Vinny1984). |
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