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Old 02-02-2024, 11:08 AM   #1
FreddyPancakes
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Default ADVICE PLEASE: $300 for long term vintage investment

I'm expecting a lil bonus from work soon and have wanted a vintage Jackie Robinson card for a while for the PC/ as a long term investment. I'd have maybe $250-300 to spend, which might get me a low grade card like a PSA 1 1956 Topps. Or I could get a 1973 Clemente in a higher grade. I like that one since it's got his career stats (unfortunately ended too soon).

Is saving up for a higher grade a better idea?
Better to buy in person or online?
Buy graded, or raw and get it graded/authenticated with a grading service (my understanding is that I can return it if I buy through eBay and it's a fake card)?
Are there good and bad times to buy vintage?
Does it just come down to my personal preference?

I have lots of thoughts and questions but very few answers. Any input is appreciated!
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Old 02-02-2024, 11:20 AM   #2
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I would buy local and raw. And I'd saw make a window 300-500 remember tax returns are coming also .

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Old 02-02-2024, 11:32 AM   #3
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In my experience, the keys to buying vintage are:

1. Buy the card, not the grade and focus on high eye-appeal cards. Simple example: if you're looking at a PSA 2 (centered, with good color, but edge damage from a rubber band) or a PSA 4 (off-centered or blurry), the PSA 2 is probably the better buy.

2. Vintage prices are much more steady than modern cards. Unless you buy something really high-end that you'll eventually auction, chances are you'll see modest appreciation at best.

3. Buy what you love. Personally, I like buying lower grade vintage because I can display it (with reasonable precautions) and not worry about it.

4. Baseball success is not a predictor of demand when selling (or buying). Case in point Eddie Matthews was a really good player, but his cards are everywhere and the demand just isn't the same as for (for example) Pee Wee Reese. (Obviously, a lot going on there, but you get the point.)

Hope this is helpful. BTW: here's a card I'd buy if I hadn't already blown my budget. https://www.ebay.com/itm/27617888994...3ABFBMspLJqq1j
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Old 02-02-2024, 11:34 AM   #4
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For raw cards that old, I’d be a little more concerned about trimming or alterations than the card being fake or a reprint. Make sure it’s a reputable dealer if you’re going that route.
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Old 02-02-2024, 12:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddyPancakes View Post
Is saving up for a higher grade a better idea?
Are there good and bad times to buy vintage?
Does it just come down to my personal preference?

I have lots of thoughts and questions but very few answers. Any input is appreciated!
First, congrats on the bonus. Using it on vintage HOFers will always get my approval

I want to focus on these three questions.

Saving up for a higher grade is an option we always have. Your hobby dollars can be spread around much easier if you buy lower grade cards with nice eye appeal (centering, registration, etc.).

If you are in it for the long game, there is no reason to focus on potential "good" or "bad" times to buy a card. If you buy the card for enjoyment, then the current conditions of the market are moot.

Personal preference is all that matters. You are NOT mentioning scrub names, so any playing days card of them will be real nice.

Cannot wait to see what you pick up.

Good luck.
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Old 02-02-2024, 12:58 PM   #6
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I would take your time with it and look whats out there. At a show, the benefit is seeing it in person and if you have good cards in your collection that you want to part with, you maybe could save some cash and trade those for it.

I do have a 1973 myself, I bought a graded one and also have bought raw and then graded them. It really depends on the deal you can get for a nice card that has good eye appeal (like others have said). A grader could knock down the grade if it has something that is hard to see. So always buy the card and not the grade.
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Old 02-02-2024, 01:07 PM   #7
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I would take your time with it and look whats out there.
#1 thought I had as well. Do not rush. You're not buying a rare card, so take your time. There are plenty to choose from.
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Old 02-02-2024, 01:14 PM   #8
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Old 02-02-2024, 01:18 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cardsin47 View Post
My 1st thought when I saw this Thread was “there are $300 Vintage Collectibles, but doubt if there are any ‘Investments’ in that price range?”

So..what say you all?
I don't "invest" in cards.

OP you do you
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Old 02-02-2024, 01:24 PM   #10
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I picked up a well centered 1955 Topps Jackie Robinson SGC 1 last year for $200 locally that mostly got a 1 due to paper loss on the back. I wouldn't call it an investment but I'm certainly happy with the purchase.
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Old 02-02-2024, 01:28 PM   #11
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Buy the best condition card you can afford. Graded is probably easier if looking to resell but your $$ can go further with raw. Those 2 players are ez to sell when the time comes. Happy Hunting!!

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Old 02-02-2024, 02:16 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreddyPancakes View Post
I'm expecting a lil bonus from work soon and have wanted a vintage Jackie Robinson card for a while for the PC/ as a long term investment. I'd have maybe $250-300 to spend, which might get me a low grade card like a PSA 1 1956 Topps. Or I could get a 1973 Clemente in a higher grade. I like that one since it's got his career stats (unfortunately ended too soon).
I'm currently browsing for a '73 Aaron to replace one I had a long time ago that went missing. I have looked at raw listings on ebay, but haven't found the right one yet. I've also bid on some PSA-6 and SGC-6, but haven't won one yet. Do your research on pricing for the card / grade, and be disciplined when shopping/bidding.

These two PSA-7 '73 Clementes sold for the same price ($1 difference). But I think the centering looks better on one of them, so that's something you should look for when browsing within a given technical grade, whether 5, 6, 7, etc.

Off center: https://ebay.com/itm/364694997743
Better centering: https://ebay.com/itm/266621322010

Notice the seller only showed the front of the card in that second listing. You should be aware that the more recently graded PSA cards will have scans available, front and back. Cert numbers starting '7' or '8' should almost always have scans, and some in the '6' and maybe even '5' range might, depending on the service level that was used to grade it (eventually PSA started imaging everything, even the lowest levels, not sure exactly when that started based on cert#)

PSA cert verification -- look up is here: https://www.psacard.com/cert/

PSA images for that 2nd listing: https://www.psacard.com/cert/84420515

Registration of Clemente's name looks off (blurred look). Print defect on the dark blue sleeve of the catcher, and a few small ones in the background of the Outfield logo at the lower right.

--**********************************--

Taking a look at some PSA-6s, there's even more variance in condition & centering.

Sharp corners, very off center, $65:
https://ebay.com/itm/375150254749

Good centering, but weak corners, $91:
https://ebay.com/itm/204551946969
Corners are soft at the tips, I could tell from the front, but the back really shows the wear against the black.

Good centering, sharp corners, $81. I think this one looks great for a 6. This is what I look for in this grade:
https://ebay.com/itm/325967981841

PSA scans are extremely bright on this one, so I can't spot anything on the front. The images provided in the ebay listing shows a bit of wear on the lower right corner, like the surface color is missing at the tip. Could have been enough to knock it down from a 7. I can't spot that easily in the PSA scan, it's too overexposed. Back looks good. https://www.psacard.com/cert/70639726

This one looks terrible. Looks like it sat in a card shop display case for years. Badly faded. And the PSA scans confirm it. I wouldn't bid on this card.
https://ebay.com/itm/204639411430
https://www.psacard.com/cert/82394914

Quote:
Is saving up for a higher grade a better idea?
Not necessarily. Sometimes a PSA-4 or 5 looks terrible, soft corners, way off center. But a PSA-2 or 3 could have near perfect centering, bright color, even corner wear, and no heavy creases.

If you're in the PSA-1 price range on a card, I'd try for a 1.5 or 2 at least. The 1's can vary a lot, and some are really trashed, so I'd rather buy raw at that point. You're not risking much buying a raw card in poor condition vs. buying a PSA-1 with major damage.

--**********************************--

'54 Jackie PSA-2, creased, $336
https://ebay.com/itm/204627399037

'54 SGC 4, o/c top to bottom, $526
https://ebay.com/itm/325973826192

'54 PSA-4, centered, $598:
https://ebay.com/itm/204633220936

I personally don't like PSA-4 condition cards (usually) at the price point they sell for. I will usually step down to a well centered, evenly worn 1.5 or 2 that will be less expensive. Or I'll look for a card with some other major, but not obvious defect, like minor paper loss or even a pin hole, if I can get a centered sharp card that looks much better than a typical 1 or 1.5 or 2.

Investment-wise (for maximizing future sale price, if/when you do sell), the higher grade is almost certainly the better buy.

PSA-4 is the most common grade for the '54 Jackie ('54 population report):
https://www.psacard.com/pop/baseball...54/topps/49723

Quote:
Better to buy in person or online?
I like online, primarily ebay auctions. I don't like fixed price/best offer and rarely try to buy those. More inventory passing through ebay than at a local show.

Quote:
Buy graded, or raw and get it graded/authenticated with a grading service (my understanding is that I can return it if I buy through eBay and it's a fake card)?
If you buy a card on ebay that's over $250, or has a fixed price set at $250+, or has a BIN on an auction set at $250, even if it sells for under 250, it should go through the ebay authentication service and you shouldn't end up receiving an aged reprint or fake or whatever.

If you buy a raw card under the threshold and it ships directly to you, you have 3 days to open a case with ebay if the card doesn't match the description. You don't have time to submit it for grading and find out it's fake or altered and then return it. Unless the seller has a return policy, and you'd probably need at least 14 if not 30 days.
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Old 02-02-2024, 02:21 PM   #13
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for $300 stick to modern
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Old 02-02-2024, 02:54 PM   #14
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i would go with Jackie over Roberto when it comes to the two cards you mentioned.

i would try to find the best looking (to YOU) lowest graded copy you can afford.

you will be very happy at the end of the day.
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Old 02-02-2024, 02:58 PM   #15
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In all seriousness - if you're talking legit vintage (which you seem to be with Robinson and Clemente) - I'd put the $300 in the bank and wait until you can raise a few hundred more

I wouldn't spend $300 on guys like those. It will just be something super low end, or beat to hell, that isn't really an investment

See if you can get closer to $1,000 before buying

If you simply want to spend the bonus? You're going back too far

Just my opinion
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Old 02-02-2024, 03:13 PM   #16
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In all seriousness - if you're talking legit vintage (which you seem to be with Robinson and Clemente) - I'd put the $300 in the bank and wait until you can raise a few hundred more

I wouldn't spend $300 on guys like those. It will just be something super low end, or beat to hell, that isn't really an investment

See if you can get closer to $1,000 before buying

If you simply want to spend the bonus? You're going back too far

Just my opinion
i am not in the "save for the grade you want" because it tends to be that by the time that person "saves up" for the grade they want, that grade will then be more than what they saved up.

its a cycle that never ends, and one just ends up chasing their own tail
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Old 02-02-2024, 03:40 PM   #17
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There is never a bad time to buy vintage.
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Old 02-02-2024, 03:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by KRAVEN4LIFE View Post
I would buy local and raw. And I'd saw make a window 300-500 remember tax returns are coming also .

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Raw vintage? You’re braver than I am…
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Old 02-02-2024, 04:14 PM   #19
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Raw vintage? You’re braver than I am…
Was about to say the exact same thing for higher graded vintage.
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Old 02-02-2024, 04:16 PM   #20
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i am not in the "save for the grade you want" because it tends to be that by the time that person "saves up" for the grade they want, that grade will then be more than what they saved up.

its a cycle that never ends, and one just ends up chasing their own tail
I don’t disagree. I wasn’t even talking graded

I’m just saying a $300 Jackie seems meh…

If I was going balls to the wall for vintage I’d want to get something higher end

OP seemed like this was a big time purchase. If it’s not? Then do what you want. Im just saying if it was my first $300+ card? I’d try to set a little more aside
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Old 02-02-2024, 04:17 PM   #21
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As mentioned above, take your time finding the right card for you. There will always be plenty available on eBay, but you should wait until the cards are at auction. Auctions tend to end lower or much lower than Buy It Now listings. Add the cards you like to your saved searches to make it easy to find new listings.

While it is great to buy in person so you can get a better look at the card, the supply will be very limited at any show. I think even the National will have limited options, and it will be a challenge to find them on the large show floor.

Good luck with your search, and please share what you end up getting.
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Old 02-02-2024, 04:22 PM   #22
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I don’t disagree. I wasn’t even talking graded

I’m just saying a $300 Jackie seems meh…

If I was going balls to the wall for vintage I’d want to get something higher end

OP seemed like this was a big time purchase. If it’s not? Then do what you want. Im just saying if it was my first $300+ card? I’d try to set a little more aside
Always someone pumping the market saying “spend more!”. You don’t happen to make a living on the hobby by chance with your 56K posts, do you?
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Old 02-02-2024, 04:25 PM   #23
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Koufax
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Old 02-02-2024, 04:26 PM   #24
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Always someone pumping the market saying “spend more!”. You don’t happen to make a living on the hobby by chance with your 56K posts, do you?
I don’t. I haven’t sold a card in probably 10 years? I’d have to go look

You should know who I am
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Old 02-02-2024, 04:27 PM   #25
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I don’t disagree. I wasn’t even talking graded

I’m just saying a $300 Jackie seems meh…

If I was going balls to the wall for vintage I’d want to get something higher end

OP seemed like this was a big time purchase. If it’s not? Then do what you want. Im just saying if it was my first $300+ card? I’d try to set a little more aside
to be fair, you only like your modern cards in PSA 10 form

$300 for a Jackie doesnt seem that crazy to me and i think that amount would be a significant amount to many for sure.
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