High End Baseball Grading Question

[Stech36]

I have a big card that I want to grade.

It’s a big 1/1 with literally no comps. Theres not a higher comp. It’s literally a 1/1 with no card even remotely like it. I value it somewhere between $5k-$25k.

Condition is an issue. It’s a thick card with relics, and some corner wear. I’m guessing a PSA 6-7. What would you all do?

1. Grade with psa and hope for a 7
2. Grade with psa and slab authentic if not an 8 or higher
3. Grade with BGS
4. Grade with SGC

I will share the card when I’m closer to selling it.. or if I decide to keep it in the pc

[hermanotarjeta]

Originally Posted by Stech36

I have a big card that I want to grade.

It’s a big 1/1 with literally no comps. Theres not a higher comp. It’s literally a 1/1 with no card even remotely like it. I value it somewhere between $5k-$25k.

Condition is an issue. It’s a thick card with relics, and some corner wear. I’m guessing a PSA 6-7. What would you all do?

1. Grade with psa and hope for a 7
2. Grade with psa and slab authentic if not an 8 or higher
3. Grade with BGS
4. Grade with SGC

I will share the card when I’m closer to selling it.. or if I decide to keep it in the pc

I would grade with BGS. I stand with them for thicker cards like exquisite, flawless and NT.

Definitely do on-site grading. Plus no up charge.

[ThoseBackPages]

i would take it to the show next year.

PSA will grade it based on value (starting at $129 this year)and you'll have to wait in a significant line

BGS will grade it for a flat fee (it was $100 this year)

SGC was not at the show this year.

This is a "big card", a 1/1 even. This card should NEVER see the mail system ever again.

if you are not attending the show, i would then fly to whichever grader you prefer and have it graded via their walkthrough option.

i will repeat it again... This card should NEVER see the mail system ever again.

"but you can get insurance" blah blah blah. that insurance money will NOT replace the card

[Rooftop]

I would keep my money in my pocket

[PuddleMonkey]

I'll take it!

[Cardsandcoffee]

Originally Posted by Stech36

I have a big card that I want to grade.

It’s a big 1/1 with literally no comps. Theres not a higher comp. It’s literally a 1/1 with no card even remotely like it. I value it somewhere between $5k-$25k.

Condition is an issue. It’s a thick card with relics, and some corner wear. I’m guessing a PSA 6-7. What would you all do?

1. Grade with psa and hope for a 7 - I would choose this is you are most likely to sell. I'm not a fan of PSA's thick slabs but they do have the best resale. Do remember the type of slab can vary from a "regular" thick slab, that looks somewhat messy with the interior film, to a giant book slab, that looks like the size of a dinner plate. I feel like that they choose at random, whatever they have on hand

2. Grade with psa and slab authentic if not an 8 or higher - I would only choose this if you think you are most likely to keep it and a PSA only type of guy but you're not ruling out the possibility of selling in the future. If its in the shape you say, Authentic doesnt really do much for resale IMO

3. Grade with BGS - My personal favorite for very thick cards, looks the cleanest, gives you the option of sub grades, and that may help if it's just one issue keeping it down. BGS looks the best with thick relics but the company is just not doing well and may not optimize future resale potential. This would be my choice if I felt more than likely I would keep it.

4. Grade with SGC - My personal least favorite option. Doesnt maximize resale or look as clean with thick cards. No sub grades.

I will share the card when I’m closer to selling it.. or if I decide to keep it in the pc

My two cents, hope it helps!

[towerymt]

Get a number grade. Not AUTHENTIC.

Good luck!

[MiamiMarlinsFan]

Anything BUT “Authentic”. I call that the Goldin Special. I just assume the seller is hiding something when I see that. I would grade on-site with PSA and just accept whatever grade it gets.

[SaveMeTheGum]

Personally, I wouldn't grade it. There's no extra value in having it slabbed with a 6 or 7 on it.

Also, if you don't show, it doesn't exist.

[KhalDrogo]

Depends on the card.

[NYBBFAN]

Sounds like an awesome card. Why are you considering grading it at all?

[PuddleMonkey]

Originally Posted by Stech36

I have a big card that I want to grade.

It’s a big 1/1 with literally no comps. Theres not a higher comp. It’s literally a 1/1 with no card even remotely like it.

Topps Archives Signature Series?


I've got some bad news for you..

[Mattsurewood]

Originally Posted by MiamiMarlinsFan

Anything BUT “Authentic”. I call that the Goldin Special. I just assume the seller is hiding something when I see that. I would grade on-site with PSA and just accept whatever grade it gets.

It's interesting how the opinions have changed over the years. In 2012 I graded a big 1/1 "Authentic", because it was a thick 1/1, and I just wanted it in a slab versus a magnetic holder. The majority opinion was, "it's a 1/1, no need for a number grade, anything less than a 10 could hurt it". I still have it, and will get it number-graded before I sell it (who knows when), as the mindset has definitely changed over the years. Funny how that shifted.

[REGGIE206]

1/1? I’d just keep it raw in a one touch that fits the thickness of the card well.

[Mattsurewood]

Originally Posted by Mattsurewood

It's interesting how the opinions have changed over the years. In 2012 I graded a big 1/1 "Authentic", because it was a thick 1/1, and I just wanted it in a slab versus a magnetic holder. The majority opinion was, "it's a 1/1, no need for a number grade, anything less than a 10 could hurt it". I still have it, and will get it number-graded before I sell it (who knows when), as the mindset has definitely changed over the years. Funny how that shifted.

Here’s the card l’m speaking of..it was on the 06 NT sell sheet, pulled it on release day:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MiamiMarlinsFan]

Originally Posted by Mattsurewood

It's interesting how the opinions have changed over the years. In 2012 I graded a big 1/1 "Authentic", because it was a thick 1/1, and I just wanted it in a slab versus a magnetic holder. The majority opinion was, "it's a 1/1, no need for a number grade, anything less than a 10 could hurt it". I still have it, and will get it number-graded before I sell it (who knows when), as the mindset has definitely changed over the years. Funny how that shifted.

There’s a lot of 1/1’s out there and every 1/1 is competing against all those other 1/1’s. They aren’t as special as they used to be. If it’s a PC card, do whatever suits you best, but if OP is looking to sell this card, he’ll want to have it graded. The grade will matter because an investor will have a lot of 1/1’s to choose from and they’ll be more inspired to spend more for a high grade 1/1. (Unless we’re talking a 1st Bowman super, a TC RC super, or a Flagship RC platinum. Those are a different beast where grade doesn’t matter as much.)

[MiamiMarlinsFan]

Originally Posted by Mattsurewood

Here’s the card l’m speaking of..it was on the 06 NT sell sheet, pulled it on release day:




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s a great card in any slab.

[Mattsurewood]

Originally Posted by MiamiMarlinsFan

That’s a great card in any slab.

Thanks! I think it'd be good for a PSA 8 maybe, it's in decent shape.

[hxcmilkshake]

The Galloping Ghost!!

Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk

[NYRE2PECT]

PSA if you ever intend to sell it.

[BoSoxFan1999]

Originally Posted by PuddleMonkey

Topps Archives Signature Series?


I've got some bad news for you..

The only "1/1' I've ever "pulled" is a 1/1 Jayson Werth auto from Archives. I think I sold it for like $15. Lol
But I don't count it is a true 1/1 rip since it was Archives.

[Stech36]

A lot of good advice here.

Part of the reason I want to get it authenticated at the very least is that the relics on the card are unique. They are pretty close to the sell sheet, but a little different, so I wanted to give a potential buyer piece of mind that it is unaltered.

[MiamiMarlinsFan]

Originally Posted by Stech36

A lot of good advice here.

Part of the reason I want to get it authenticated at the very least is that the relics on the card are unique. They are pretty close to the sell sheet, but a little different, so I wanted to give a potential buyer piece of mind that it is unaltered.

If this is about selling, PSA should be the only TPG you consider.

[Bosoxfan5990]

Originally Posted by Stech36

A lot of good advice here.

Part of the reason I want to get it authenticated at the very least is that the relics on the card are unique. They are pretty close to the sell sheet, but a little different, so I wanted to give a potential buyer piece of mind that it is unaltered.

To be clear, they don't grade the relics, or even check if the relics have been swapped. They just grade the card.

[SaveMeTheGum]

Originally Posted by Stech36

A lot of good advice here.

Part of the reason I want to get it authenticated at the very least is that the relics on the card are unique. They are pretty close to the sell sheet, but a little different, so I wanted to give a potential buyer piece of mind that it is unaltered.

Why won't you show the card??????